Quite enjoyable climb and great snow to ski on the way down, but this seems to me a quite objectively dangerous route. There is serac fall danger nearly from the start to finish. The terrain is perfect for avalanche danger at 25-35 degrees. Although it didn't seem very dangerous considering the angle, even a small slide would could be deadly as you are constantly traversing above angry ice falls (terrain traps).
All in all not a route I'd recommend, although aside from the two dangers mentioned, no technical difficulties and just sails right up. Good skiing potential!
At the far left end of the Triangle du Tacul is a couloir, the North Couloir. We climbed this route and abseiled down the Triangle (there is no abseil-piste!).
See also my website here.
I climbed the mountain severall times by different routes, but this is the one time I reached the actual summit. This time we climbed during the high-season wich was noticable by the very deep tracks you had to follow.
See also my website here.
camped on the mer du glas for a few days and did three 2 routes. cheree, and a rock route
on one of the satellites
check out the morning sun wow.
a very beautiful goulotte, with my friend gregory vannier a our guide sylvain empereur
My first 4000 m mountain after first short experience of Acute Mountain Sickness.
A success within a failure. Set off from the Cosmiques Hut at 4am with Rich Cross, but didn't feel good. This should have been the start of the Trois Blancs but only did Tacul and returned to the Cosmique exhausted. Next day discovered I've got two broken ribs from a fall on Aiguille Du Moine, no wonder I was struggling!
We left early in the morning reached the summit from the Aiguille du Midi in under 2 hours, very windy on the shoulder. With no time to eat on the summit and a fierce storm coming from Italy we hurried back down. Reached Aiguille du Midi before 12 PM, lightning started shortly thereafter. First time climbing the Tacul, relatively easy, part of a preparation for the Mont Blanc.
Nice day !! It was 13 of us in the summit that day.
Easy route! But a very beautiful view!
Nice mixed route.
my first 4000m high mountain. Fog + snowing. Only me and my 2 partners on the top.
Cut a 3 summit trip short and just topped out on Tucal. The guy with me was sick from the night before in the Col du Midi and we had been climbing for 3 days straight. The weather was coming in and we knew we were going to slow to do it in one push. Great sunrise coming down Tucal though.
Finished on Tacul having climbed Mont Blanc and Maudit.
Cold and windy but wonderful morning! No problems to reach the top ridge.
Climbed it in great weather, but too late in the day and made for postholing (taught me a lesson though)
took at lot longer than expected not happy with snow conditions on the return.
Climbed Tacul the day before summiting mont blanc. Perfect weather. Acclimatizacion for next day.