Great day, great climb
In 5 hours from Gouter hut, the weather was good.
With Giles Cornah.
Amazing weather. My first attempt which turned into a solo summit.
Major in july 1986, Brenva Spur in 1984
Free solo ascent made on the morning of Sept. 7th. From speaking to the staff at the Refuges Des Cosmiques, no one had summited this route in nearly 2 weeks due to a high avalanche risk advisory in effect and new crevice formations which were deemed difficult to spot because of fresh snow.
Close to 100 climbers at the refuge, 8 of us set out and 6 (4 person team and two soloists) of us made it to the summit.
It took nearly 12 hours to summit(2pm) - there was no trail after Mont Blanc du Tacul and we took a vertical ice climb through Mt. Maudit. I took another 12 hours going down the Gouter route till I arrived in the Chamonix Valley (2am) in one giant 24 hour full traverse effort.
My first big trip - very fulfilling! Trained like hell for it (from nothing) for a few months and found it relatively easy.
The first day we slept at refuge de Tête Rousse. The second day we summited and went back to refuge de Tête Rousse for a second night. We caught a weather window and the conditions were very good. The Grand Couloir is dangerous. We got a late start, but that meant that we had the summit to ourselves for a few minutes. It took us about eight hours from refuge de Tête Rousse to the summit, with long breaks at refuge du Goûter and refuge Vallot. I got a great picture of the summit with clouds over it while on the Dôme du Goûter.
High winds but great views!
1st attempt on Gouter route. No summits for a week before and after due to huge wind in the summit area. Hundreds summited that day...
Solo'd up the Gouter Route. 60-70 mph winds blasting from the Gouter Hut all the way to the summit. I had the rare chance to stand on the summit alone.
Climb via Gouter route. Extremely strong winds and dark clouds blowing in towards the morning. Turned around at Vallot around 7 am. Still very happy! Beautiful sunrise and amazing days on the mountain.
a 3 day trip became a 5 day trip.
had 3 summits assaults and the last one was the good one.
From camp at Tete Rousse. High winds.
Best midnight star-show I ever saw!
10 year´s successful anniversery climb!
A lot of new fresh snow made it rather easy and we were not so exposed as last time on the petit bosses.
Wonderful weather on the summit day but snowing lightly during the ascent the day before and during the night. Not many people due to the bad weather on the assent but more coming up on the descent.
Thanks goes to my Spanish companions for a very nice trip!
Aiguille du Goûter
Ascent via The Three-Mont-Blanc route (Cosmiques), descent the same route.
A great peak!!!
good weather, complete within 2 days