Dottie Little Tent - Dec 26, 2006 2:53 am - Voted 10/10
?Mr. Spiker, have you ever climbed this one? The angle from this shot makes it look beyond my 3rd class abilities, but this shot http://www.summitpost.org/view_object.php?object_id=249708
makes it seem that one could come across from Eagle Pass and at least make the South Summit with out much vertical rock in the way.
Fred Spicker - Dec 26, 2006 6:17 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: ?I have climbed the peak two times, both times via the NW Ridge, which faces the camera in this photo. The route climbs the ridge without difficulties to the small notch, and then traverses onto the west face on a large ledge. One can then climb to the summit via a number of different options all of which appear to be Class 4.
HERE is a very brief trip report of an ascent of this route (PDF file – scroll down to Trip Reports, page 2), with photos posted here: Photos
The book Climbers Guide to Montana (1986) by Pat Caffrey (out of print) does describe a route from Eagle Pass and rates it Class 4. He states that the last 15 feet of the south summit is "easy" Class 4 with the traverse to the north summit being definite Class 4 and requiring a rope in early season (snow).
The middle summit can be climbed via a chimney on the east side – also Class 4.
If you would like a transcription of the route description, let me know via PM. It is not that long, but I am sure it is copyrighted so I will not put it here.
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