Jmoeesq - Sep 29, 2014 10:54 am Date Climbed: Jun 17, 2011
Discretion is the Better Part...
Muir/DC Route - We spent one day ascending to Muir, camped there for 2-3 days waiting for summit winds to die, made an attempt but still got turned around high on the DC w/ 50+mph winds. Several guided groups also turned around - probably only one or maybe two teams pushed on to the summit. We opted to retreat due to the enormous danger we felt the winds were posing. Purchase was too difficult and sketchy on the DC, and we didn't have enough gear to make running belays w/ only two of us. Temps/wind chills were very low, but the views were magnificent! Camping at Muir wore us down, though.
careyjd - Sep 2, 2014 8:56 pm Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2014
DV route summer ascent
DC route w/ RMI, wonderful weather, not a cloud in the sky, warm day but parkas still nice on upper mountain. Fantastic experience!!
nhberes - Aug 25, 2014 4:17 pm Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2014
Summit via DC
Awesome weather. Clear skies and cold. Made to the summit crater at 6:45 and up to Columbia Crest about 7:10. Incredible climb.
losboats - Aug 17, 2014 7:42 pm Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2014
DC during super moon
Summited via the DC on Sunday morning, 8/10, under the super moon. Gorgeous weather, clear skies, very little wind. Couldn't ask for much more. Muir was full so we camped below Anvil Rock. Left Muir at 12am, summited at 7:45am.
Party of 2, 3 day outing. Paradise to 1st bivy below Turtle. Ice chute was in good shape. Route does not go over top of Wapowety Cleaver, rather stays on upper Kautz to gain the ridge coming off of Point Success. Was following a party of 8 and flagged route. Some crevasses are pretty wide with rapidly melting snow bridges! Late summit and 2nd bivy on Disappointment Cleaver. Weather was warm, lows at night no less than ~40F, less than 5 mph wind.
Vic Hanson - Aug 10, 2014 9:20 pm Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2014
DC Route
Hiked up to Muir Camp in 4 hr. 20 min. on Friday with Jason, Doug and Tim, left there at 12:30 that night, reached the summit at 7:25 Sat. morning under clear skies.
Canuck89 - Aug 9, 2014 5:28 am Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2014
DC route
First time on this mountain and used the DC route to summit. Nice weather and met some great people at Camp Muir!
BradBartick - Aug 3, 2014 7:11 pm Date Climbed: Sep 9, 2009
DC route 2009
With Bruce Lacroix. Had to assist a guy escape from a narrow crevasse due to snow bridge collapse. Lots of rockfall on the cleaver. 2 days, 1 night.
bb - Aug 2, 2014 2:00 pm Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2014
DC
DC route. Car to car 17 h 15 m. I'm an average hiker.
This year was the 2nd year in a row to the top. Went up last year with IMG via DC, summit 7/20/13. Then, my wife wanted to go. So, here we go again. Returned with IMG again, both of us summited (actually, all 12 climbers in our group were successful.) I can't say enough good stuff about IMG. Beautiful weather both years. I have to say, after being on the mountain 3 times now, it gets better each time. First year with RMI was not successful. But with each successive year, what was once a chore is now becoming more routine, so you can smell the roses along the way, so to speak.
We had perfect weather and extra days to ensure a summit.
[Day 1] 8am--arrive at Paradise. 8:45am--leave the trail head. 2:45pm--arrive at muir, set up camp, melt water, eat, and practice self arrest. 6pm--sleep.
[Day 2] 8am--leave Muir. 9:40am--arrive at Ingraham Flats, set up camp, melt water, eat, prepare packs for summit, and sleep.
[Day 3] 10pm--wake up, eat, drink, and rope up. 10:50pm--leave Flats. 5am--summit in time for the 5:20 sunrise. Enjoyed summit for half hour. 9am--back down at the Flats.
brihuang - Jul 18, 2014 7:34 am Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2014
DC
Much wind in the final 2 hour stretch with some whiteout conditions. Thought of turning back many times but prevailed in the end. First time on Rainier and it was the my hardest earned summit yet.
calebEOC - Jul 16, 2014 9:59 am Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2014
Emmons
Three day ascent camping on the inter glacier day one, emmons flat day two, and summiting in a snowstorm and high winds day three. Beautiful weather all four days on the mountain except summit day. Snow was super soft, two feet of slush in sections.
Got a bit of a late start (2am) and ended up coming down the cleaver in some pretty soft snow later in the day. Strong winds and very little visibility for parts of the ascent.
Jurgen - Jul 5, 2014 12:05 am Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2014
Rainier in a Day
We started at Paradise at 9 pm and reached the summit 10 hours later. Conditions were very good and the weather was perfect. The view from the summit was amazing and it was a worhty summit to finish our US trip.
Some thoughts.. Rainier is a big mountain which is technically pretty easy, but I found the DC route quite dangerous. Rockfall danger along the Cowlitz glacier, the beginning of the Flats and when traversing on the Disappointment Clever. Furthermore, seracs are threatening the Flats. So be sure to be able to tackle the difficulties without problems in order to be fast enough on these dangerous sections. A frosty night and an early start are also obligatory.
Super Dave - Jul 4, 2014 4:41 pm Date Climbed: Jun 30, 2014
DC Route
Held off a couple days waiting for a storm to clear, then had perfect weather conditions. Summit views were awesome. Rainier is a BIG mountain! Trip Report
Hixsonhr - Jun 25, 2014 10:47 pm Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2014
Disappointment Cleaver
Awesome climb with perfect weather. A bit crowded but otherwise couldn't have been better
keeganray - Jun 9, 2014 7:51 pm Date Climbed: Jun 2, 2014
DC route
Had a chilly bivy at the top of the cleaver and pushed for the summit the following afternoon. The view from the top was crystal clear, but 30-40mph winds. Spent an hour exploring and spent the night back at the Muir bunk house. Right now the crevasses are pretty minimal. The biggest being 6-8 inches wide. Awesome experience, can't wait to go back next year!
MattDurkee - Jun 8, 2014 11:07 am Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2006
DC
2nd hottest day in Yakima ever! 109 F
Last group out of Camp Muir for the day at 2:00 AM. The mountain was melting....
gbrill - Jun 4, 2014 11:04 pm Date Climbed: Jun 6, 2011
Jmoeesq - Sep 29, 2014 10:54 am Date Climbed: Jun 17, 2011
Discretion is the Better Part...Muir/DC Route - We spent one day ascending to Muir, camped there for 2-3 days waiting for summit winds to die, made an attempt but still got turned around high on the DC w/ 50+mph winds. Several guided groups also turned around - probably only one or maybe two teams pushed on to the summit. We opted to retreat due to the enormous danger we felt the winds were posing. Purchase was too difficult and sketchy on the DC, and we didn't have enough gear to make running belays w/ only two of us. Temps/wind chills were very low, but the views were magnificent! Camping at Muir wore us down, though.
careyjd - Sep 2, 2014 8:56 pm Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2014
DV route summer ascentDC route w/ RMI, wonderful weather, not a cloud in the sky, warm day but parkas still nice on upper mountain. Fantastic experience!!
nhberes - Aug 25, 2014 4:17 pm Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2014
Summit via DCAwesome weather. Clear skies and cold. Made to the summit crater at 6:45 and up to Columbia Crest about 7:10. Incredible climb.
losboats - Aug 17, 2014 7:42 pm Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2014
DC during super moonSummited via the DC on Sunday morning, 8/10, under the super moon. Gorgeous weather, clear skies, very little wind. Couldn't ask for much more. Muir was full so we camped below Anvil Rock. Left Muir at 12am, summited at 7:45am.
Fensterschlechter - Aug 16, 2014 3:39 pm Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2014
Kautz Ice Chute, descend DCParty of 2, 3 day outing. Paradise to 1st bivy below Turtle. Ice chute was in good shape. Route does not go over top of Wapowety Cleaver, rather stays on upper Kautz to gain the ridge coming off of Point Success. Was following a party of 8 and flagged route. Some crevasses are pretty wide with rapidly melting snow bridges! Late summit and 2nd bivy on Disappointment Cleaver. Weather was warm, lows at night no less than ~40F, less than 5 mph wind.
Vic Hanson - Aug 10, 2014 9:20 pm Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2014
DC RouteHiked up to Muir Camp in 4 hr. 20 min. on Friday with Jason, Doug and Tim, left there at 12:30 that night, reached the summit at 7:25 Sat. morning under clear skies.
Canuck89 - Aug 9, 2014 5:28 am Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2014
DC routeFirst time on this mountain and used the DC route to summit. Nice weather and met some great people at Camp Muir!
BradBartick - Aug 3, 2014 7:11 pm Date Climbed: Sep 9, 2009
DC route 2009With Bruce Lacroix. Had to assist a guy escape from a narrow crevasse due to snow bridge collapse. Lots of rockfall on the cleaver. 2 days, 1 night.
bb - Aug 2, 2014 2:00 pm Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2014
DCDC route. Car to car 17 h 15 m. I'm an average hiker.
Virginia14er - Jul 28, 2014 12:26 pm Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2014
Keeps Getting BetterThis year was the 2nd year in a row to the top. Went up last year with IMG via DC, summit 7/20/13. Then, my wife wanted to go. So, here we go again. Returned with IMG again, both of us summited (actually, all 12 climbers in our group were successful.) I can't say enough good stuff about IMG. Beautiful weather both years. I have to say, after being on the mountain 3 times now, it gets better each time. First year with RMI was not successful. But with each successive year, what was once a chore is now becoming more routine, so you can smell the roses along the way, so to speak.
nsward - Jul 21, 2014 2:19 pm Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2014
Great Weather on the DCWe had perfect weather and extra days to ensure a summit.
[Day 1] 8am--arrive at Paradise. 8:45am--leave the trail head. 2:45pm--arrive at muir, set up camp, melt water, eat, and practice self arrest. 6pm--sleep.
[Day 2] 8am--leave Muir. 9:40am--arrive at Ingraham Flats, set up camp, melt water, eat, prepare packs for summit, and sleep.
[Day 3] 10pm--wake up, eat, drink, and rope up. 10:50pm--leave Flats. 5am--summit in time for the 5:20 sunrise. Enjoyed summit for half hour. 9am--back down at the Flats.
brihuang - Jul 18, 2014 7:34 am Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2014
DCMuch wind in the final 2 hour stretch with some whiteout conditions. Thought of turning back many times but prevailed in the end. First time on Rainier and it was the my hardest earned summit yet.
calebEOC - Jul 16, 2014 9:59 am Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2014
EmmonsThree day ascent camping on the inter glacier day one, emmons flat day two, and summiting in a snowstorm and high winds day three. Beautiful weather all four days on the mountain except summit day. Snow was super soft, two feet of slush in sections.
edge17 - Jul 7, 2014 5:25 pm Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2014
via DCGot a bit of a late start (2am) and ended up coming down the cleaver in some pretty soft snow later in the day. Strong winds and very little visibility for parts of the ascent.
Jurgen - Jul 5, 2014 12:05 am Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2014
Rainier in a DayWe started at Paradise at 9 pm and reached the summit 10 hours later. Conditions were very good and the weather was perfect. The view from the summit was amazing and it was a worhty summit to finish our US trip.
Some thoughts.. Rainier is a big mountain which is technically pretty easy, but I found the DC route quite dangerous. Rockfall danger along the Cowlitz glacier, the beginning of the Flats and when traversing on the Disappointment Clever. Furthermore, seracs are threatening the Flats. So be sure to be able to tackle the difficulties without problems in order to be fast enough on these dangerous sections. A frosty night and an early start are also obligatory.
Super Dave - Jul 4, 2014 4:41 pm Date Climbed: Jun 30, 2014
DC RouteHeld off a couple days waiting for a storm to clear, then had perfect weather conditions. Summit views were awesome. Rainier is a BIG mountain! Trip Report
Hixsonhr - Jun 25, 2014 10:47 pm Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2014
Disappointment CleaverAwesome climb with perfect weather. A bit crowded but otherwise couldn't have been better
keeganray - Jun 9, 2014 7:51 pm Date Climbed: Jun 2, 2014
DC routeHad a chilly bivy at the top of the cleaver and pushed for the summit the following afternoon. The view from the top was crystal clear, but 30-40mph winds. Spent an hour exploring and spent the night back at the Muir bunk house. Right now the crevasses are pretty minimal. The biggest being 6-8 inches wide. Awesome experience, can't wait to go back next year!
MattDurkee - Jun 8, 2014 11:07 am Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2006
DC2nd hottest day in Yakima ever! 109 F
Last group out of Camp Muir for the day at 2:00 AM. The mountain was melting....
gbrill - Jun 4, 2014 11:04 pm Date Climbed: Jun 6, 2011
Disappointment CleaverNice route and great team!