The third stop on a Carillon-Tunnabora-Russell-Whitney-Muir dayhike out of Whitney Portal. A very nice peak: the East Ridge was extremely enjoyable, as was the headwall at the top of the South Slopes.
climbed with fbagni from summitpost; we went the south face, right side route which had moderate exposure but all bomber holds; lots of wind and a few icy patches starting to form on the top ridge
Beautiful day. Little windy. Lots of loose rock. No ice or snow.
Russell was the first peak of three to summit on this day hike. Russell-Whitney-Muir. Weather was perfect.
Summitted via the East Arete. Easy climbing but fantastic exposure. When we got to the summit the guy who summitted an hour earlier was Aron Ralston - the guy who had to amputate his arm. His summit entry stated that he was off to do Whitney and Muir that same day.
Nice dayhike, although I felt crummy from a cold I was getting over. Calm and relatively warm on the w. summit. Tagged Carillon too.
East ridge is a great climb, and the exposure isn't as menacing as it would seem at first glance. There are maybe 2 or 3 spots where class 3 moves are required, but evern those aren't anything daunting for those with comfort with technical passages. Thunderstorm rolled in very suddenly and hit when we were 2 minutes from summit so we literally tagged it and left. Dropped as low as possible away from ridge on North Side to traverse back to saddle via some 5.4ish type moves. 13 hours car-to-car.
The ridge was the best part of the climb. However you try to get to it, it's a slog.
Fun route, much better than the Mountaineers Route up Whitney.
Take the Rockwell Variation!!! Do not follow the footsteps leading Northeast from Upper Boy Scout Lake (those were from people descending). You will be in for the most gravelly sandy climb of your life and if its slightly hot, you'll drain in no time and be on your hands and knees. This is a beautiful trek up the Whitney Mountaineers Route. ( However you may need a machete for the "riparian" sections).
Man, is this a cold route. It's in the shade when everything else, I mean everything except the 5 foot strip of arctic you are in, is sunny. 3 pitches of 5.9 in the dihedral if you belay at the logical two stances. Lots of ridge climbing to the summit.
Highly recommend this route. Nice Class III wall at the end. The weather was perfect. No wind and you could see forever.
Traverse from Mt. Carillon to Russell to Muir, and to Whitney. Finishing at Lower Boy Scout for a nice day hike!
We hiked up the NF to UBSL as a training hike for the MR on whitney the following day. Felt great and it was only 11 so we went up the East Ridge on Russell, summited by 2 and decended the last 200 feet of the ridge in a classic Sierra T-storm.
Sustained 3rd class climbing at it's best.
Awsome! Best non-technical climb I have ever done. Exposure was just enough to keep all senses on high alert. Climbing was always fun, with no real difficulty but enough challenge to keep it interesting (unlike other climbs that turn into nothing more than boring scree / talus hiking).
This was the most rewarding peak I've climbed so far. Did a solo dayhike. It looked intimidating and that's probably what made it so rewarding. It's not as bad as it looks and I never had to go over anything that exceeded class 3. I'll definitely be doing this one again some time.
Solo from trailhead. Roundtrip under 7hrs in 1998, and traverse to Whitney in 2000.
Another successful solo summit. Though I will have to admit the traverse made me a little nervous at times. The most exhilarating peak I've done to date, finished in 9 hours from the portal(blah).