Very warm, lots of rock fall. Snow is melting fast.
On 19 May 2001 Garth Utter joined Ed Reiter and myself on the summit at about 1:30 PM. We successfully completed the Casaval Ridge Route under clear skies but with winds up to 40 to 50 mph on the top of the ridge. This was a second summit of Shasta for all three of us. It was an interesting, airy and mixed alpine experience. We experienced snow/ice slopes up to 55 degrees and climbed class 4 rock along the ridge line with some significant exposure and awe inspiring runout below.
In my defense, I made it within ~20ft of the top. I *would* have made it but Josh gave me incorrect directions to the top when we passed each other on Misery Hill.
Climbed with Ryle and Sebe. Insane winds at the top of Misery Hill and near the summit made for some interesting "climbing" (I literally almost got blown off the mountain). A huge lenticular cloud hung over Shasta all day. Otherwise, perfect conditions. The snow at the lower elevations was pretty consolidated. Above 10K ft there was a nice wind-packed surface. Ryle and Sebe didn't summit for various reasons. Did the round trip from the parking lot in 5.5 hours.
Well, my friend, Lee Price said,"Come on up and we'll do Shasta". I told him that I thought it was February and pretty cold. He reassured me that we'd have the mountain to ourselves.........and he was right !!! Joined by teacher friend, Steve, we plugged up the hill to about the 11,000 ft. level and spent a very comfortable night. The next morning revealed that it had stormed, below us, that is, so we summited with a sea of white clouds beneath us and blazing blue sky above !!! Glissading down " Giddy Gully" we hollered , Laughed and giggled, descending in a few hours what had taken nearly 2 days to climb. Thank you, Priceless, wherever you are for a fine, fine trip and a wonderful lesson in Life. If you're going to run with the Big Dogs, you've got to get off the porch !!!!
On Saturday afternoon we drove up from sea level to bunny flat. I got up at 4:45 on Sunday after a long night of not sleeping because my climbing partner, Slavedriver needed to sleep with the clock (in the car), and I had to sleep on the parking lot at bunny flat. (I used to be able to sleep on such surfaces but found out that is not longer the case). We started the climb at 5:00, and I followed in his postholes. The snow didn't slow him down much, and I thought I was moving quickly considering the condition, but was definitely not matching The Slavedriver's breakneck speed. We went a little ways up towards Avalanchce Gulch, and then went up one of the windows to Casaval Ridge at around sunrise, when we put on crampons. Here I was warned that "If 'we' don't speed up, 'we're' not going to make it", even though my heart was going at about 170bpm. I got slower and slower as we kept going, I think not taking time to eat was detrimental (Slavedriver wouldn't let me, and the guy had an ice axe). We passed these people camping and the guy was like "Oh, we're staying here another night, no sense rushing it." That made a lot of sense to me. At around 12000 feet I was stopping every 100 feet for short recoveries and kept falling asleep (I am just a Silicon Valley Sally, what do you expect?). Slavedriver was getting pissed, but he was still pretty cordial, only yelling at me occassionally. I was exhausted, but I was not getting a headache due to my steady diet of Ibuprofen. Somewhere we hit a 15 foot 5.5 climb, and that woke me up, since I was unroped and not quite sure how far I'd slide down the mountain after a fall (It was actually safe, I was just too groggy to realize it). After that I was much more energetic and the climb was easy, what I remember of it. I remember the summit was damn windy, that's for sure. We might have summited around 3:00. I would not advise doing Casaval Ridge in one day unless you are in shape. Especially if you are with The Slavedriver.
Single day ascent with Ryle. 80+ mph winds in places. Forgot sunscreen. Face is not happy.
Summited on a beautiful day around 10:30 AM. Conditions were perfect. I recommend taking a basic snow school with one of the local guide services. Mount Shasta is a great introduction to mountaineering.
My first summit of Mt, Shasta was in June of 1998. I love this mountain. I've been back several times and summited three times, all solo. As long as I am able to climb I will return to try the many diverse routes. Green Butte/Sargents Ridge and Casaval Ridge are both outstanding and have been two of my most memorable climbs.
My May 1999 climb was my first time up Shasta, and it was by myself. I started hiking at 3:05 am from the Bunny Flat parking lot, and to my frustration, the snow at the lower elevations had not frozen solid during the night. This made for an unpleasant hour of postholing. Finally, at about 9,000 ft, I reached firm snow. At 7:50, I reached the summit, snapped a few photos, then began the long descent. I got back to my car at 9:59 am.
My August, 2000 climb was with two other people. Ryle and I reached the summit without any trouble. The other guy we were with didn't do so well.