Summited August 2017. Here is my full detailed account of the climb: https://gethighonaltitude.com/2017/08/15/mt-shuksan-the-north-face/
While on the glacier with RMI doing a Denali prep course.
Car-to-car in 16 hours. Smokey, little in the way of views.
* Ascent via Fisher Chimneys 8/23/17
Still my favorite summit view to date. Perfect weather and the summit to ourselves. Wish we could've spent more time up there.
Scramble up the gulley was a lot of fun! Great views all around. Had to hurry out of there because thunderstorms and rain were incoming.
Climbed in two days via Sulphide with Matt Lemke and Don Nguyen with Josh turning back early due to an old RMI. Don lapped us while we nervously kicked steps on the summit pyramid. We knew what we had got ourselves into and I wasn't looking forward to the descent on steep ice. Somehow we survived the folly and the rest of the day went fine and slushy. Except for the falling over 100 times on skis with a heavy pack part. and the avalanche. those parts sucked. But hey, great view. I highly recommend BRINGING CRAMPONS and knowing how to ski before hand, unless you want to be awesome like us.
What an incredible climb! I did the summit pyramid (AI 2 at the time) without crampons...although this isn't advised. Incredible summit view above all the low clouds.
Sulfide Glacier Route. Got technical on the summit pyramid, but was well worth all of the effort. Great experience
Fisher Chimneys in 2 days, with a 5.4 variation over the ridge on the right side of the route as it ascends Winnie's Slide. Awesome.. just damn incredible.
Crevasses are opening up and the route will be tough to climb in a few weeks.
Had a blast on the Fisher's Chimneys route to ring in independence day. Fun route to solo; a bit wonky in mountaineering boots.
Wow - all I can say after tackling the most technically challenging LONG summit day of summer 2015. 4:45am departure from Lake Ann, 6:30pm arrival time back at camp. Chimney's are juggy and fun, but a workout. Winnie's Slide was some crampon toe pointing and axe swinging (necessary rappel downclimb). Plenty of pro in the places you needed it on the summit pyramid - probably 25 people up top by the time we got there. Nothing blown out just yet with respect to cracks
awesome climb with a ton of variation. A lot of crevasses severely limited our route choices but we got there eventually. Down climbing and lowering in the Chimneys had its moments but overall a great intermediate level climb. We did it in two days which was ambitious but good to be home.
Shuksan is going to make me earn it ... multiple weeks of near drought conditions met our 2 day climbing plans last weekend with constant / consistent rain, making the first chimney (full of wet vegetation) a risk not worth taking. Round two end of month hopefully ...
It took 4 days, but the final 600' scramble was SO worth all the effort.
We made it!
Great route! Primo conditions on Winnies slide and Hell's Highway. Definitely finish on the SE Rib......great, mellow simul-climbing with fun exposure and outstanding views. Watch out for the mounties rappelling down the gully! Party of 12 kicking rocks and shouting at each other. We unroped and blew past them as quickly as possible. Fun stuff
After getting off route, I slogged up the ridge next to the White Salmon Glacier on the way up, intersecting the correct route near the top of the glacier. Taking the proper route on the way down was much easier and more fun. A mellow day on a nice-looking mountain. Trip report.