The West Ridge Route, Class 5.8, is the best Oregon alpine rock I've seen. This is a 7 pitch (or so) route with very good Andesite rock. We approached the ridge from the South via the PCT.
Beautiful weather climb from Patjens Lake TH with a good group of climbing friends. Climbing was pretty easy, but it sure was nice being able to rappel that first section.
Started near Big Lake on the Pacific Crest Trail joining another trail leading up the North Ridge. Lost the trail and ended up scrambling straight up the mountain.
I was part of a team of 10 from the Mazamas (mazamas.org) that climbed the North Ridge route. We started from the parking lot of the Big Lake Youth Camp and used the PCT to move through the wooded lowlands and onto the ridge proper. Although it might have been possible to do the route in 2 pitches with a 70m rope, as a big group we opted for 3 pitches to the top and a rappel from the top of pitch 1 on the return. Excellent views now that the summer fire season as calmed down!
I looooove me some rope!
Hot day out. Fun little scramble. Solo up and some rappelling down. Neat little summit with great views.
It was cold a windy day, at the summit we were in the clouds.
The weather was perfect. We took the climbers trail up the NW ridge and descended down the gully. It might just be me, but it seemed a little bit looser than last time. Regardless it was a great day with great friends.
Pretty easy access from PCT onto ridge then some easy 5th moves. Hardest part was first few moves on rotten rock, yet still didn';t rope up. Summit was cool, but we were in and out of clouds. Scrambled all the way down to last rap station.
We went off route on the second pitch (really bad beta), made for some dicey climbing. Overall the rock quality is generally good if you stay on the correct route and the only serious exposure is the end of the first pitch as you climb out of the ramp. Great views. We descended the scree field, this was a really bad idea, it is not recommended, very dangerous IMO.
Be careful on this one. I soloed this and then brought my gf up; a bit of easy 5th but most scrambling on crappy rock. But as we were on our way down a noob came flying off the end of his rappel and almost knocked my gf off a ledge.
Climbed via SouthEast Spur 5.5 in approach shoes in July. Approach required crampons and ice ax for permanent snowfields. Car to Car required about 12 hours. We climbed the SE Spur with approx. 15 pitches and several short rope sections. Technical climbing took about 4 hours. The descent was easy with 2 nice raps and a little down climbing. I would recommend 2 trekking poles for the descent. Also, mosquitos are bad so bring repellant. Also, rock quality on the SE Spur is descent, it's not as bad as people may claim. Lots of anchor building options and pro placement.
Climbed Mt Washington with friends from my meetup group, Northwest Wilderness. It was a perfect weather day and we all had a great time. A first Summit for Katya and a summit that required some actual climbing for another lady. She did Mt Shasta a few weeks ago.
Being new to climbing myself , I thought it was a bit tougher than Three Finger Jack, we set rope for protection on 3 pitches. The rappels down were fun except on the last one the wind was coming up hard. The rope kept blowing around the side of the mountain. As for bad rock. Not having a lot of experience for qualifications, I thought the mountain has just gotten a bad reputation.
Want to add that I would agree with Nick's comment completely.
Another great trip with Karl and the gang. Met at least four other groups on the mountain. Dodged quite a lot of rocks kicked down by one of them. A fun climb in perfect weather.
The approach was pretty crappy. The cairn on the PCT was easy to find, but the climbers trail was terribly overgrown and unmaintained. So pay attention, we lost the trail 8 or 9 times. Once we gained the ridge it was easy to approach the summit block. Then the fun begins. SP says to take the second ramp, but in reality there is a small ramp that they don't mention so you should really take the third ramp. The second isn't bad but there is a lot of exposure. The third was a class 4. After that it's pretty easy sailing. Don't be intimidated by all the hype. This rock is not too hard and very rewarding. Have fun and be safe.
We set a fixed line for the sketchy part. I was glad to have it as the fall is substantial and the holds, while plentiful, can be questionable. Rappelled on the way down, fun climb.
Real fun climb with short approach. Belayed a short bit then scrambled.
Not much in the way of mosquitoes cept at twilight and early morning. Wildflowers were gorgeous.
First climbed the North Ridge back in 1971. Over the next three decades climbed West Face, King Rat, Chimney of Space, South Face, South Face Dihedral, Southeast Spur and East Buttress.
Over the years have bivied (intentionally )on top four times - neat spot.