Reached the crux 14 years ago and turned around, lack of experience/gear. Finally came back and finished the route. Super fun! Smoky and viewless but worthwhile nontheless. 70m rope was excessive. Rap stations spaced out to accommodate a shorter rope. From the notch, I traversed too far right and got off route. Found the dark left leaning gully and no problems the rest of the way. The cascade bucket list continues!
Free soloed the north ridge with my accordion, lots of loose rock on the northeast face, kept to the northwest face. 10 hours round trip car to car, beautiful view of Three Fingered Jack, Jefferson, and the Three Sisters. Signed summit register, hot almost 80 degrees even on the summit. Descent by downclimbing, terrifying but exciting!
Soloed all but the rap of the crux. Would consider full solo. 6.5hrs RT.
This was an Obsidians group climb. Started at the PCT near Big Lake and went up the climber's trail on the north ridge. An excellent climb with adult supervision to set the fixed lines.
Great climb! 7/23/17 West Ridge
Really fun, although views were pretty hazy due to controlled burning around Camp Sherman. Parked at Youth Camp.
Cold morning. Summit got socked in after the first pitch and the temps dropped. Good day on a choss pile
* 7/23/17 West Ridge Route, YDS 5.8, 7 pitches. We approached the ridge from the South via the PCT.
* 10/20/18 North Ridge Route, YDS 5.3, 3 pitches.
Beautiful weather climb from Patjens Lake TH with a good group of climbing friends. Climbing was pretty easy, but it sure was nice being able to rappel that first section.
Started near Big Lake on the Pacific Crest Trail joining another trail leading up the North Ridge. Lost the trail and ended up scrambling straight up the mountain.
I was part of a team of 10 from the Mazamas (mazamas.org) that climbed the North Ridge route. We started from the parking lot of the Big Lake Youth Camp and used the PCT to move through the wooded lowlands and onto the ridge proper. Although it might have been possible to do the route in 2 pitches with a 70m rope, as a big group we opted for 3 pitches to the top and a rappel from the top of pitch 1 on the return. Excellent views now that the summer fire season as calmed down!
I looooove me some rope!
Hot day out. Fun little scramble. Solo up and some rappelling down. Neat little summit with great views.
It was cold a windy day, at the summit we were in the clouds.
The weather was perfect. We took the climbers trail up the NW ridge and descended down the gully. It might just be me, but it seemed a little bit looser than last time. Regardless it was a great day with great friends.
Pretty easy access from PCT onto ridge then some easy 5th moves. Hardest part was first few moves on rotten rock, yet still didn';t rope up. Summit was cool, but we were in and out of clouds. Scrambled all the way down to last rap station.
We went off route on the second pitch (really bad beta), made for some dicey climbing. Overall the rock quality is generally good if you stay on the correct route and the only serious exposure is the end of the first pitch as you climb out of the ramp. Great views. We descended the scree field, this was a really bad idea, it is not recommended, very dangerous IMO.
Be careful on this one. I soloed this and then brought my gf up; a bit of easy 5th but most scrambling on crappy rock. But as we were on our way down a noob came flying off the end of his rappel and almost knocked my gf off a ledge.
Climbed via SouthEast Spur 5.5 in approach shoes in July. Approach required crampons and ice ax for permanent snowfields. Car to Car required about 12 hours. We climbed the SE Spur with approx. 15 pitches and several short rope sections. Technical climbing took about 4 hours. The descent was easy with 2 nice raps and a little down climbing. I would recommend 2 trekking poles for the descent. Also, mosquitos are bad so bring repellant. Also, rock quality on the SE Spur is descent, it's not as bad as people may claim. Lots of anchor building options and pro placement.