Ascend is not so bad, but going down is a different story...
Headed out from Shepherd's Pass at 0400 in fairly heavy snow. Took around 4 hours (after getting turned around and unknowingly crossing a frozen lake) to get to the base of the west face. Solid climb up, chimney to the summit had a lot of snow and ice on it. Rappeled down a portion of it. Awesome climb, approach was a beast.
Great 4 day solo trip covering Will, Barnard, Trojan, and Tyndall. Camped in Williamson Bowl all three nights to avoid strong wind at the pass. Some snow- used crampons briefly in the chute- no ice axe though. Chimney was fun and weather on top was perfect!
2 day trip via George Creek. Slow but otherwise good.
Left Anvil at 4am, at pass at 5:45. Snow below pass was crusty but passable w/o axe or crampons. Some snow up high in gully but easily climbed around on climber's right.
Had a great Father's Day summitting Mount Williamson this past Sunday with climbing partners Bryan Bell, my son Travis, & joining Sean Kenney in the snow covered shoot on the way up. Warm, no wind, clear skies at the top. Just a great day !! Duck Soup ! Russ Thaw
Had great weather for our climb up the West Face. Camped at Sheperds Pass and had the whole area to ourselves. We had a bit of an epic as we took a right had turn about 500 feet before the end of the gully looking for the chimney. Ended up on some dicey 4th class stuff but we were able to downclimb and head back up the gully to the summit. Sweet views of Whitney, Russel and Tyndal.
Hard to top the weather we had yesterday. :)
Otherwise known as the Williamson bowl.
Took a chance on the weather and was rewarded with a outstanding weekend of climbing. 2 more 14er's and 2 new climbing partners. Thanks SJ and souloscrambler for a great trip!
click on the thumbnail for pics
from camp at lake below Tyndall's east face
This was a tough approach through the Williamson Bowl and up the West Face. Got off route starting too far South up the West face, this cost of a couple of hours. Snow was heavy through the upper section so we when to the ice and spikes. In addition anchored and belayed for safety. By the time we reached the summit it was almost 5 pm, but fortunately the weather was perfectly clear. Fantastic view!
We considered bivying in the summit bowl to enjoy the firework display in the town of Independence, but elected to return to camp at Shepherd’s pass. The only difficulty in the decent was dealing with the boulders in the Bowl after dark. Even with headlamps, tough to find the exact route out were able to view the fireworks in the Independence as we exited the bowl. This made for a long but very rewarding day. What a spectacular peak!
The Bowl was much harder then anticipated, and I was suffering from the altitude half way up. Still made the summit and dragged ass back to camp.
A long, painful day from Shepherd's Pass TH. Is there a less painful way to climb this?
Terrible bushwhacking on hike in. Summit day makes it well worth it.
so many attempts...
The old register book was still there from 1930. It's in the Bancroft Library now.
Backpack to Pothole, day hike up to Shepherd Pass, summit via West Face route.
Climbed a year ago June. Good peak- long approach!
The short climb at the top of the gully was freezing.
After summiting via the W face with Sebastian in '1(?) & attempting the route in March with Kris, Pavel, & Mark, finally came back to do this monster.
Unfortunately, alcohol (Whoa Nellie mango marg, rum, & beer) & lack of sleep (3 hrs) the night before, as well as unrelenting (read: energy-robbing) direct sunlight the whole day of the climb basically cost me my 24-hr route bid.
Regardless, absolutely awesome climb! Left truck in Owens Valley @ 5.31. While having knowledge of the route's intricacies up until the notch helped me to save some time, fatigue & dehydration counteracted that. By the time I reached the base of the E horn, the sun was starting to get a little low on the horizon. As I had no desire to attempt traversing the horns in the dark (& felt like shit anyway), I decided to bivy ~13,000' (at the base of the talus slope). After seeing the horns up close & personal, I concluded that this was the right decision.
Left camp next morn' at 5.42, summiting the E horn at 7.02 (saw a bighorn sheep en route- cool!!). Traversing the horns was 'interesting,' let's say :) 2 rap's from the E horn down (was more concerned with time than trying to find a weakness to downclimb- besides, had brought the rope so why not use it?). A spicy (I have a great guardian angel) downclimb got me down the W horn. True summit at 10.09. Left summit at 10.56, reached TH at 17.32.
Some tips to would-be summiters via this route:
- drink (water) like crazy the night before going
- do NOT drink alcohol the night before
- start EARLY (try to get above the initial 2,---' sandpile before the sun robs you of all your energy (i.e. before sunrise).
- bring at least 5L of water (bring too much, however, & the weight will slow you down)
- bring a 30-m rope & slings for potential rap's (retrieval line unnecessary)
- be comfortable soloing 4th-easy 5th- belays will at least double how long it will take you to complete the route