In any season, in any conditions, do this route and not the Whitney trail. This was my 3rd time on the route. MR is best in winter when its all snow, also easy in summer though there is a lot of rock knocked loose by other climbers in the gully. In spring there is actually mixed climbing (snow + icy rock) so a rope is actually recommended for this season for the upper 300', though I guess you could always take the variation to the right to avoid this. Cool to camp on the summit (in the hut) in the snow.
Received walk-in permit Friday morning and departed the Portal for Upper Boy Scout Lake. Summited Saturday and returned to Upper Boy Scout. Hiked out Sunday morning. Snow conditions were quite soft and we were postholing up the chutes. Almost easier to use the rock/scree to move up to the Notch unless you leave EARLY for the summit.
Didn't technically finish the route... a day tour to the top of the snow, a hundred feet or so short of the notch. Skied thru post-holed mank in the upper couloir, and good summer snow down to lower Boy Scout. 10hrs car-to-car, a great day to be out.
Led to Iceberg Lake by Kent's son, Andrew. To the summit with Brent. Main trail down. One hour on top, all to ourselves!
Perfect conditions - warm and calm the whole way to the notch, and firm enough snow for a relatively easy ascent. Clouds rolled in around 12, and it snowed on us as we glissaded the route around 2, but we still got great views and fairly epic sunburns!
Followed Mount Russell with MR on same trip
Perfect conditions, although it felt a bit warm. Drove to the portal, camped at Iceberg one night, summitted and hiked out. We rapped off the summit to the notch instead of downclimbing.
First attempt was two years ago, bailed on our summit to assist with an accident on another team.
A somewhat strenuous day hike from the portal(5:00am-3:00pm). It was a fun scramble and not very crowded. I think I saw 5 people on the route total, and one of them was going for Russell not Whitney. When I went down the trail it was a different story. I saw easily over 100 people.
I have been up the MR many times, all seasons and all conditions and it's always a great climb.
Went with a CMC group. Camped at UBSL. Top couple hundred feet of mountaineer's gully was melted out. Final 400 in fine shape, though a bit of scrambling at the start. Descended via the north face traverse.
Cold day alone on the summit. Always a fun route.
2nd time on the summit, first up Mountaineer's route. camped at iceberg lake on Saturday night, hit the summit early sunday morning. Awesome trip!
With Rick Kent. Whitney summit #21; first time up MR (finally).
did the mountaineer's route at a leisurely pace, spending two nights at iceberg lake. snow was perfect going up to the notch.
The route had about 8 inches of fresh pow on it...I think I started 3 separate mini avalanches...fun. At least the ice at the top was covered up.
Fun spring route, nothing technical but some nice steep snow at end. Great hike in and a super scenic camp site!
What he said! Great climb overall.
Great conditions on the way up, camped at Upper Boyscout lake and had great snow conditions all the way to the top the next day. That night, not so much. Wind picked up and flattened our tent at 2:00 am. Crappy night of redoing and tightening guylines only to have them rip completely off the tent fabric. Good thing we both had bivy sacks!
Climbed Whitney via the Mountaineers Route and the skied the Couloir below the Notch. Fantastic trip!
My 2nd summit, and an enjoyable day. Great route and climb, but LOTS of traffic in the final 400' feet. Climbed with a group from SMG who I met on MeetUp.com. Good times and great conditions. Like to do the route in earlier winter to avoid the crowds though.