Coming down the gully with snow and no ice axe is exciting! :)
Descended via the Mountaineer's Route after climbing the East Buttress with Doug Robinson.
Solid climb. Descended down the main trail due to sketchy conditions in the couloir.
up the Mountaineer's Route, down the Main Mt. Whitney Trail.
Mountaineers route one more time! #5 Down the main trail to tag Muir.
Left Whitney Portal around 5:30 AM as we wanted daylight to help with navigation once we turned off the main Whitney trail. The route was easy to follow and conditions were great. There was thin ice seeping from the water stain on the rack band before Iceberg lake. We last about 30 minutes trying to climb the wall at the water seep before we found the easier notch to the left. We could hear a lot of rockfall in the couliour, but nothing came that close. Glad we had our helmets.
The transition from the couliour to the notch was still covered in snow and ice. We used loose rock to break away the ice to get better holds. Getting into the notch and the upper part of the notch had a bit more exposure than we had anticipated.
At the summit we decided to take the mule trail down because we were not keen on descending the couliour late in the day when it might begin to ice up again. We got back to the Portal in time for a burger.
A snow storm over the previous weekend spoiled our attempt. Made it to about 10,000 feet and learned of hip-deep snow, so we turned around. Will be back!
like this, and I have never been happier.
Jess's first real Mtn. Hit the top right at sunrise. Awesome!
Multiple solo ascents.
Solo 3-pin ski descent, too. Would have been a perfect ski run except for the big gully in the middle of the chute from people sliding and glissading down. Ain't there no respect for skiers?
Weather was questionable. Thunder & lightning in the forecast. We decided to do the one day climb. Left the crampons & ice axe in the car. The snow in the gully is almost gone. Left Whitney Portal at 4:15am and hit the summit at 11:45am. No view at the top. Descended the main trail...OUCH! Eleven miles of crowded switch backs...beautiful country though...
This was my first foray into climbing high peaks in the Sierra. My climbing partner was experienced fortunately, but I learned alot about myself and what is needed to be proficient in climbing the higher peaks. Interestingly, I just sold those Salewa crampons I used on this climb to a father who wants to teach his son to follow in his footsteps.
On spring break from med school my buddy and I attempted the MR route, lots of snow and winter conditions. Got turned around at Upper Boyscout Lake by avy concerns and lack of avy gear, will be back.
A late season dump turned what we thought would be a nice spring outing into a wintery epic climb, complete with airy, exposed traverses on snowy slopes,sub-sub zero wind chill summit day, the threat of wet snow avalanches, and a frozen top-layer morning descent that made my legs shake. What an awesome weekend!!! Thanks to Matt, Mark, and Marie!!! I'd climb again with any of you any day of the week (just not this week - still sore!!!)
Amazing Trip. See full details here:
I forget the exact date. We bivied at Iceberg Lake and I soloed (stupidly) up the rib to the right of the gully. I remember one really exposed move which felt like 5.5, which was too much in my leather boots.
Found the route in perfect conditions and warm temps. Opted to summit on a Friday and had the route to ourselves. Made my first trip to Whitney definitely one to cherish.
When there are too many people on the route when it isn't snow covered...bring your helmet!
blasting spindrift and storm clouds on the horizon. full value.
My 1st CA 14'er for my 45th B'Day.