A beautiful day took us up the main chute (with a diversion at the beginning to avoid an iced-over lower gully) to the 4th- and sometimes 5th-class top-out above the notch. Amazing!!
Even though it was a relatively dry year for Whitney there was still enough snow in the chute to make for an easy climb. The final 400 was a mix of snow and rock and wasn't all too bad either. Great route.
Enjoyable winter trip up the Mountaineer's Route and then over to Muir and down from Trail Crest. Getting back to camp between UBSL and Iceberg Lake was not easy!
Second attempt on Whitney. First occurred ~10 years ago via the Whitney Trail while I was visiting friends on the central coast. Now that I'm living in California, the mountain beckoned me back. Camped at Iceberg then summitted and returned using the Whitney Trail. So glad I chose MR on the way up as the main trail was super crowded on the way down.
Started from Lower Boy Scout Lake.
From that point, a bit of snow and ice on the route leading up to Iceberg Lake forced a slightly slower pace. Ice was too thin for crampons but covered large enough areas of the path to make it slightly challenging. Took about 3.5 hours to Iceberg Lake.
Taking the chute to the summit was a nightmare with crampons. No existing path meant postholing past the knees through soft fresh powder and hitting the loose scree underneath. I think microspikes would have been much more fitting under the circumstances. I thought that the snow would be firmer towards the top but that was absolutely not the case. Was a long slow climb up in deep snow up to the notch but weather conditions were fine.
Glissading down the entire chute was a lot of fun and saved a ton of time. Met three others who had setup at Iceberg Lake for a October 31st summit attempt.
A lot of fun and would consider coming back in the future.
Camped at Iceberg Lake. From there, with the great weather we had, it was a very fast up and down scramble.
Climbed with a couple of guys from SMG (Dakin and Leath). Stuck to the left side of the main chute then climbed the second chute on the north side. Lots of loose rock in the gullies but manageable.
Hiked in with Jean on July 14, 2012 and camped at Iceberg Lake.
A lot of loose rocks in the gully and the final 400 ft was solid.
Kind of nervous at first since we did not bring the helmets. But stay on the right side of gully most of time will avoid lots of loose rocks.
Hardly any snow this year. The chute was a loose experience. The final 400 feet was the most pleasant part of the climb from Iceberg Lake
Made it to 14138 feet at the top of the couliour and then turned back after a scary fall. See trip report for details
Via Mountaineer's Route. Clear conditions after a brief storm on Saturday, but very windy. The first pitch of the final 400ft is rock/mixed right now, while the rest is fairly deep snow under a crust.
Did this in one day. Left at midnight and got to the top at about 9 AM. One of the best mountains I've ever had the joy to experience.
Wow, what a fun route! Especially the ledges leading up to Iceberg Lakes, and the last 500 feet. Unfortunately I went down the trail so I could grab Muir on the way by, and that was incredibly boring after having down the mountaineer's.
Climbed Telescope Peak 2 days earlier and then spent a day exploring Lone Pine and the Alabama Hills. Hiked up to Iceberg Lake and slept under the stars. Had to break ice on lake in the morning to get water for coffee. Classic scramble up the chute and to the summit. Climbed with SP members Tracy, edsclimb, and my niece Megan. Tracy had climbed Whitney 38 years earlier at 11 years old and Whitney was my 48th United States Highpoint. Great way to finish my quest.
After hiking up the Mt. Whitney Main Trail numerous times over the years, I switched to the Mountaineer's Route to avoid the crowds.
Winter ascent in a wind storm. Conditions in the final chute weren't great so we went up the rock rib to the left (cl 4 or so). Was a lot of fun.
In any season, in any conditions, do this route and not the Whitney trail. This was my 3rd time on the route. MR is best in winter when its all snow, also easy in summer though there is a lot of rock knocked loose by other climbers in the gully. In spring there is actually mixed climbing (snow + icy rock) so a rope is actually recommended for this season for the upper 300', though I guess you could always take the variation to the right to avoid this. Cool to camp on the summit (in the hut) in the snow.
Received walk-in permit Friday morning and departed the Portal for Upper Boy Scout Lake. Summited Saturday and returned to Upper Boy Scout. Hiked out Sunday morning. Snow conditions were quite soft and we were postholing up the chutes. Almost easier to use the rock/scree to move up to the Notch unless you leave EARLY for the summit.
Didn't technically finish the route... a day tour to the top of the snow, a hundred feet or so short of the notch. Skied thru post-holed mank in the upper couloir, and good summer snow down to lower Boy Scout. 10hrs car-to-car, a great day to be out.