I climbed Mt Whitney with my friend. It was superb. I love that there is nearly no climber on this mountain. The mountaineer's route was beautiful, and fun. The last two hundred feet below the summit were a bit challenging since it was getting late morning and the snow was becoming soft. My best advice is to get an alpine start before the summit push, as the snow will provide more grip.
Matt C. and I climbed the mountaineer's route 15 years ago....before there were problems getting permits and before the route was a trail. Just recently climbed Russell (E.R) and had fond memories going up the north fork of lone pine.
better to ski this in powder conditions, given the 6.02x10^23 different bootpacks that go up this line. wanted a switch ski descent, but junky frozen spring conditions forced normal turns, heh.
On our summit day we wound up assisting a party that had a fatality due to an ill-advised attempt to catch the sunset from the summit. RIP.
We tried to avoid some of the slush in the notch and wound up on class 4 rock part of the way, so decided to use the highway on the descent. Next time, we'll plan on doing the MR in May or June so we can step into some better snow and perhaps ski down. All in all, it was a fantastic day, though. Great job on route-finding directions, Steve Larson.
Two occasions of falling rock. We were fortunate to run into Jackie Florine as she comp'ed her record on the JMT. http://www.jacquelineflorine.com/john_muir_trail_2005.html
Climbed MR, bived on top and descended main trail in the morning.
Part of a Badwater-Whitney trip. Climbed in a day after 2 days and 135 miles on the bike from Badwater.
Also used route to do Mt Muir 6/27/03 pausing at Whitney summit going and returning to look for Xavier, Kim, and the LVMC climbers doing the East Face...they successfully summited on my second stop
My first (of many, I'm sure) ascent of Whitney.
Coming down the gully with snow and no ice axe is exciting! :)
Descended via the Mountaineer's Route after climbing the East Buttress with Doug Robinson.
Solid climb. Descended down the main trail due to sketchy conditions in the couloir.
up the Mountaineer's Route, down the Main Mt. Whitney Trail.
Mountaineers route one more time! #5 Down the main trail to tag Muir.
Left Whitney Portal around 5:30 AM as we wanted daylight to help with navigation once we turned off the main Whitney trail. The route was easy to follow and conditions were great. There was thin ice seeping from the water stain on the rack band before Iceberg lake. We last about 30 minutes trying to climb the wall at the water seep before we found the easier notch to the left. We could hear a lot of rockfall in the couliour, but nothing came that close. Glad we had our helmets.
The transition from the couliour to the notch was still covered in snow and ice. We used loose rock to break away the ice to get better holds. Getting into the notch and the upper part of the notch had a bit more exposure than we had anticipated.
At the summit we decided to take the mule trail down because we were not keen on descending the couliour late in the day when it might begin to ice up again. We got back to the Portal in time for a burger.
A snow storm over the previous weekend spoiled our attempt. Made it to about 10,000 feet and learned of hip-deep snow, so we turned around. Will be back!
like this, and I have never been happier.
Jess's first real Mtn. Hit the top right at sunrise. Awesome!