Exhausted and dehydrated I spend a peaceful night at iceberg lake. Self rescued while vomiting all the way down the next day. Mountaineering: the best part is when it stops. Can’t wait to almost kill myself again. Beautiful route.
Made an attempt towards the end of March.
There was a road closed sign at the bottom of the hairpin near the dirt parking area, however it is possible to drive past it.
Somewhere around the bend in the hairpin there was enough snow that driving wouldn't have been possible.
About a quarter mile past the hairpin there is an actual closed gate.
From there everything was under several feet of snow. We camped just off the road at Whitney portal. Snowshoes became necessary shortly after the north fork.
We only made it to lower boyscout because we started too late in the day and the soft snow was too tiring for some of us.
Look out for the sketchy avi conditions directly below lower boyscout.
Great place to be!
The approach is long and the camping pleasant.
FA of this route John Muir in October 1873.
There's many other nearby peaks worth climbing. Some look like fun trad routes.
Climbed the Mountaineers Route in late July 2017 (big snow year). It took 7 hours up, and 4 down. Would have been 1hr faster without snow. Route ended up being fairly straightforward. Water crossings were a non-event. The chute was covered in snow - ended up scrambling up the exposed rocks on the left side until around 13,500' and then hiked up softish snowpatch with crampons and poles to where the rocks reemerged around 13,900'. On the final 400, there was a big patch of snow in the middle, ended up going right to find fun class 3 climbing.
Made the climb from base camp at Upper Boy Scout Lake. Absolutely phenomenal weather! The class 3 scrambling/climbing from the notch at 14k to the summit was my favorite part.
I hiked this route three times for various reasons but my latest hike took my all the way to Whitney's summit. Not difficult particularly but 6 hours to the top seems slow.
From camp at Iceberg, familiar by now and still an excellent training climb
2nd time up the route. Shutdown at the notch in March/April 2011. Less snow=less postholing in gully. Conditions were perfect. Summited day before massive windstorm brought 130 mph winds to Sierra crest.
Went up with a group. Spent 4 nights out on the trail. Lots of cool ice and snow. Liked the climb and the route is beautiful.
I was one in a group of newbie climbers. We took it nice an slow - enjoying our time on the mountain. Personally, I would recommend taking a couple days to complete the climb and enjoy the scene.
Beautiful day on the Mountaineer's Route. 6 hrs from Whitney Portal to summit.
Solo from the Portal. Just a bit of new snow on climber's left, rest of the chute is dry now.
Two day winter outing.
I did the route with my wife in the spring of 2011. Great route! With a lot of snow. We had the route for ourselves, no other parties. Nice couloir to the summit. We did it in one day, which was quite heavy, but okay.
Got seriously, perilously off-route before the ledges, then struggled to find a way through the willows above Lower Boy Scout Lake, then went up the wrong chute and had to traverse on an airy ridge over to the notch. Wanted to stop, but knew that downclimbing to iceberg lake would be harder and more dangerous than summitting and taking the trail. One of the hardest things I've done, but dammit I made it! Picked up a JMT through hiker on the way down and drive him to Yosemite. The whole hike took about 9.5 hours.
I had permits for North Fork of Lone Pine Creek-JM34 for 4 people. We drove from Corvallis, OR and Portland, OR and did it all as a 3-day trip (permits for Monday/Tuesday only). We originally planned on staying at Upper Boy Scout Lake, but decided to shorten our summit day trip by moving up to Iceberg Lake instead. We departed at 5:30am, topped out at 8:30am, and made it back to Whitney Portal at 7pm. Very few people on the whole route and serene views abound. Also saw several people crossing the finish line for the Badwater 100 ultra-marathon at the Portal.
This would have been easier if I hadn't led my partner up the wrong gully -- the one immediately to the right of the correct one. Eventually we realized our mistake and were able to traverse and get back on route.
A beautiful day took us up the main chute (with a diversion at the beginning to avoid an iced-over lower gully) to the 4th- and sometimes 5th-class top-out above the notch. Amazing!!
Even though it was a relatively dry year for Whitney there was still enough snow in the chute to make for an easy climb. The final 400 was a mix of snow and rock and wasn't all too bad either. Great route.