Mt Breitenbach

Mike topping out at the marginal belay spot. Curt had 7 pieces of pro that consisted of copperheads, #1 and #2 stoppers strung together with equal tension slings on this belay. I clipped in and didn't look at the anchors again until Mike finished this pitch. Faith be with us. (Photo by Curt Olson)

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skunk ape

skunk ape - Dec 29, 2009 5:52 pm - Voted 10/10

Yikes!!!!!

Well at least you were on perfect rock!

I cant imagine Copperheads were anything more than a mental "feel good" in that mank.

reboyles

reboyles - Dec 29, 2009 6:27 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Yikes!!!!!

The only thing that makes this face climbable is the fact that the steepest rock is compact. The lower angled bands are like compressed dirt. Snow cover is the secret to getting up this face. On the summit we all agreed that we'd probably never do this route again.

skunk ape

skunk ape - Jan 5, 2010 2:27 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: Yikes!!!!!

I’d suspected the snow was a big help and probably stays very late in the couloir. Did any of you talk to Monte Sweigert about his variation to bypass the aid section? The photos I’ve taken don’t have enough detail to tell but it all looks pretty bad. By the way, If you decide to do a route page, I’ve got a great photo of the entire face I’d email you.

reboyles

reboyles - Feb 11, 2010 3:41 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Yikes!!!!!

I'll take you up on that photo of the face. All I have is a stitched together picture that hides the chockstone and other features of the route and no, I haven't seen Kevin (Sweigert) in over 30 years. We didn't see an alternative to using aid to get over the overhanging entrance to the upper gulley or we would have tried it. We descended the route by way of the East Ridge/North Face which in itself is a good class 4 climb.

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