Myshliaev route (South Ushba)

Myshliaev route (South Ushba)

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 43.12417°N / 42.65991°E
Additional Information Route Type: Difficult rock and mix climbing, aid climbing
Additional Information Time Required: A few days
Additional Information Difficulty: ED
Sign the Climber's Log


Approach is almost the same as to the route of Gabriel. Collaboration with Georgians is inevitable for climbing this route. Otherwise you will be robbed many times before you reach the Mountain.

Climbing history

First time this route has been climbed by L. Myshliaev team 28 July 1960. It took 17 days to climb this route for the fist climbers.

Route Description

From the left side of the Lower Ledge of the Middle Rock Belt of the West Ridge climb up 240-260 m taking a little to the right by vertical and very difficult rocks (smooth faces, corners, chimneys, overhanging and cornices) of the big corner-chimney of the left side of the main bastion of the Middle Rock Belt (mostly aid climbing).
By the icy 30-meters couloir climb to the Upper snow-ice slope of the NW Face. From here 120-150 meters up and to the right by the steep slope with projecting rock slabs move to the beginning of the rock face in the Upper part of the West Ridge. From the Lower ledge (beginning of the route) four days of hard aid climbing.

From the beginning of the rock face in the Upper part of the West Ridge climb up 350-380 m. by the vertical and partly overhanging rock (sleeping in hammocks) to the beginning of the Upper snow-ice slope of the NW Face.
By this slope climb up to the rock face in the Upper part of the W Ridge.
From here climb 60 m. by the steep couloir (6+) to the small flat ledge.
From this ledge climb up by the very difficult icy chimney (aid-climbing) then 20 m up by the difficult wet rock face (attention - loose rocks) climb the West Ridge above the Middle Rock Belt.
From the Ridge traverse the snow-ice slope 60-80 m to the right to the rock crest near the Red Corner.
From the Red Corner climb the difficult small (3-4 m) rock face and then climb by the steep rocks of the Crest (average difficulty) 150 m up to the beginning of the SW Ridge of the Summit Rock Belt.
From the Crest, by the 4-6 m rock face climb to the slanted smooth rock platform 3x4 m.
From this platform climb up 15-20 meters by the SW Ridge. Then there is a very difficult traverse 10-12 m (aid climbing) and then climb up 15-20 m by the hard vertical corner to the ledge. By the slanting rocks of this ledge climb up and right, then 25-30 m up and left and then by difficult chimney climb the "Roof of Ushba".
By the simple rocks climb to the small flat place where bivouac is possible. From the Red Corner 8-10 hours.
From the bivouac climb up by easy and average difficulty rocks 200-250 m to the W Ridge. By the easy and average difficulty rocks of the W Ridge climb the Summit of the S Ushba.

Essential Gear

The route is not equipped. There are some gear (bolts and pitons) left on the route by the first climbers 30 years ago, but I do not recommend to use it.
Ropes, crampones, technical ice axes, snow stakes, pitons, hummers, bolts and drills, icescrews. Planform for sleeping on the rock.
Climbing this route takes 5-8 day depending on the weather conditions.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.



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