N-NO ridge “Ometto ridge”

Page Type
Alpi Graie/Italy/Europe, Italy, Europe
Route Type:
Trad Climbing
Time Required:
A long day

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N-NO ridge “Ometto ridge”
Created On: Jul 13, 2012
Last Edited On: Feb 27, 2013


The rock is the ultrabasic massif, which covers most of the Lanzo’s valleys, with serpentine and prasina, but here there is a red serpentine with a formidable grip and this is certainly one of the reasons that have made famous our "Uja"!
Take care, occasionally the red serpentine is crossed by blue veins of talc, which are very slippery especially when wet!

Uja di Mondrone
Uja di Mondrone (22/09/2011)

Getting There

- From Turin motorway A55 exit Venaria Reale follow indications for Lanzo Torinese and go on through Germagnano and Ceres, here you enter in Val d'Ala, continue passing Ala di Stura, Mondrone and Molette in direction of Balme, after a bridge turn right on a secondary road in direction of Chialambertetto and Molera, cross again the river and turn right proceed a little bit and then turn on the left on a steep, narrow dirt road that with many turns reach the small village of Molette (1478 m.) before the village you’ll find indications for "Uja di Mondrone” and “Bivacco Molino”. You can also park at Molette in this case you can reach Molera by foot in 30 minutes.

First Ascents

G. Corrà and M. Richiardi Aug. 28,1884.
They climb the “Ometto ridge” but where the ridge becomes confused (crossed by canals and ramifications) they rise on the pre-peak.
It is still easy to fall in this error!

Route Description

Uja di Mondrone
 Uja di Mondrone

From Molera (1478 m.) - Diff. PD+/AD- (some step of III), 6h (2h + 4 h) , 1486 m.
CAUTION, bad weather conditions may decree a very fast difficulties and dangers increasing!
Proceed as par the Normal route till the junction of the trails 232 (leading to the Uja di Mondrone summit) and 233 for " Bivacco Molino". Here turn right (trails 233) and with a wide semicircle around the Uja di Mondrone you get the base of the east ridge where the " Bivacco Molino" stands. Do not reach the bivouac and proceed around the Uja di Mondrone, crossing the moraine amphitheater under the Uja N wall. Than the path turns to the west and rise the ramp of grass and debris that leads to the Ometto Pass (2618 m.). The name of the pass and the ridge also comes from the enormous rocky pillar located on the watershed.

Uja di Mondrone N-NO ridge
Aascending after the first sector of the ridge
Uja di Mondrone N-NO ridge
on the final part of the ridge

Start directly to climb on the ridge, following some small marks (originally orange painted signpoints, now they are white). After the first sector if you stay on the ridge edge you will find some step of III that can be also overcome on W (max diff. II but the rock is bad). Proceed directly on the ridge and where it becomes confused (crossed by canals and ramifications) it is necessary to turn left (ascending) with the horizontal cross of an exposed gully. Than a steep wall lead you to a new ridge, climb it directly following the signpoints. Pass the main difficulty steps (III) and then continue on the ridge edge. Proceed directly on the ridge and reach the debris top of the mountain.

Uja di Mondrone N-NO ridge
 end of N-NO ridge “Ometto ridge” -  reaching the debris top of the mountain.

DESCENT: Descend on the normal route.

Essential Gear

Mountaineering and climbing equipment, including helmet, harness, rope, belay and some flat tapes or lanyards slings for traditional anchors on the ridge spikes, no bolted belays on the route.
Take care to always verify the integrity of the rock spikes!
Uja di Mondrone
 Uja di Mondrone summit view. Ciamarella on the back

External Links

You can get whether forecast at this site:
www.regione.piemonte.it official site of the Regione Piemonte
Mountain Rescue phone n°: Italy 118
Union of Mountain Guides (Piemonte-Valle d'Aosta) phone n°: +39 011 5171628

N-NO ridge “Ometto ridge”

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