NE ridge

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 46.44779°N / 13.83385°E
Additional Information Route Type: Hiking, Mountaineering, Sport Climbing, Big Wall, Scrambling
Seasons Season: Summer, Fall
Additional Information Time Required: A long day
Additional Information Difficulty: UIAA IV/III
Sign the Climber's Log


The route over NE ridgeis one of the two from north, from Martuljek. The other route is Over Kacji jezik (Snake's tongue). Both of these start at Bivouac III (Pod Srcem) and go together to the distinctive orientation point, named Trije macesni (Three larches).

From Martuljek village you go towards south, by the Martuljek Creek you take one of the two marked paths and proceed either through the gorge (more beautiful) or left of it and reach the area above the First Waterfall. here both paths join and you proceed through woods, a bit turning towards SE. In woods soon one path deters to the right (under Spik) but you go straight towards SE. Soon the slopes through woods become steep, you leave the creek deep below on the left and climb to the rocky barrier. Here some steel ropes and pegs help you to overcome the steepest rocky part. Just below this section a tiny path (also marked) can bring you to the Second Waterfall. It's certainly worth to see it (from there you must return)! Steel ropes bring you just on the upper part of the waterfall and behind the corner you reach the flat lower part of basin, named Za Akom. The path from here on is no more marked. If you are looking for the bivouac - it stands some 50 meters above the edge of basin - to the right.

Route Description

The broad basin Za Akom is a beautiful place. Here is the water source, it's sunny and all around are wild mountains. Our climb goes further towards south. First you can still follow the path, later it is lost in the scree. The orientation is the broad, 800 m high, vertical wall of Siroka pec and below it, on the right side a distinctive hill with 3 larches. The scree falls through the left and the right ravine of this hill and it is preferable to choose for the ascent the left one (between the hill with 3 larches and Siroka pec wall). This couloir is almost all the year filled with snow, and as it is steep on the upper part, you will probably here first time use crampons and ice axe. At 3 larches you must take a long rest, this is one of the most beautiful places in Martuljek, which itself is for me also the most beautiful group in Julian Alps. Here the routes to Veliki Oltar over Grlo pass and Over Kacji jezik split.

From 3 larches you proceed towards south by a scree shoulder. It is not dangerous, but also not very comfortable. Above it's likely you will already reach snow fields. They proceed southwards, but as the Siroka pec wall is now over. On the left you see Jug's Couloir, but you turn right to the one of the most beautiful place in Martuljek group. You come to the basin below the Veliki Oltar and pass Grlo.

Now you turn to the right and scramble to the notch between Oltarcek 2447m and Mali Oltar 2521m. Some places you must climb. Nothing really hard but UIAA II.

Now you can make this route a little harder and you climb to the Oltarcek. You have a very narrow ridge which you can ride it and climbing to UIAA IV. The peak is completely aerial with place for one person.

So you descend back to notch and the you continue climbing to the Mali Oltar. On the top you descend back to the rideg and continue to the summit of Veliki Oltar. The ridge is not very hard but you climb places like UIAA III and you have one or two descends by rope. And you come to the top of Veliki Oltar 2621m.

You descend by Normal route to the Grlo pass and then turn left and descend to the basin below Veliki Oltar and come to route where you go up.

Essential Gear

Rope, helmet and other things for climbing

In early summer you will need a ice pick also.

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

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Vid Pogachnik

Vid Pogachnik - Mar 28, 2005 3:21 pm - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

There's a third route from north on Veliki Oltar - over Grlo pass!

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