Nevado de Toluca (Xinantecatl) Climber's Log

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Ted Bauer

Ted Bauer - Dec 13, 2017 10:02 am Date Climbed: Dec 10, 2017

Sea Level to top in 24 hours  Sucess!

Left San Diego on Saturday, summited on Sunday. Great hike/climb. I got a late start due to some miscommunication at the hotel, but completed it in 5 1/2 hours. Went up the south side then straight down the scree shoot. I had thoughts of doing the rim traverse, but was out of time and energy. A ton of people there enjoying the lakes on a Sunday afternoon. I have to say even after reading that their is a false summit I was fooled by it as well as a little disheartened. However, it and the true summit made the climb much more enjoyable.

Foxy Long Bottoms

Foxy Long Bottoms - Mar 21, 2017 12:11 am Date Climbed: Mar 17, 2017

Pico de Fraile  Sucess!

From Parque de los venados lodge with Court, Chad, Chris, Jose.


gimpilator - Feb 20, 2017 10:30 pm Date Climbed: Jan 14, 2017

North Ridge  Sucess!

I spent a month climbing volcanoes. While climbing Toluca I also went to the top of Pico de Aguila, Cerro de Ombugo, and Arista de Humboldt.

Other peaks I bagged on this trip include...

Volcán La Malinche, Cofre de Perote, Pico de Orizaba (country highpoint, 3rd highest in North America), Volcán Iztaccíhuatl, Nevado de Colima, Cerro Tancitaro

Volcán Pacaya, Volcán Tajumulco (country highpoint, 24th most prominent peak on earth), Volcán Concepción, Volcán Tacaná (2nd highest in Central America), Cerro Chemal "La Torre", Cerro Chemal "Cerro los Cuervos", Montañas Peña Blanca, Volcán Santa María, Volcán Atitlán, Volcán Acatenango

Costa Rica:
Volcán Poás, Volcán Barva, Volcán Irazú, Cerro Chirripó (country highpoint, 36th most prominent on earth), Cerro Piramide, Cerro Terbi, Cerro Buenavista

Trip report with photos


dino61111 - Jan 21, 2017 7:12 pm

Pico del Aguilla  Sucess!

From a beautiful campsite just above Laguna del Sol, we made our way over Pico Noreste and on to Aguilla. This was meant as an acclimatization climb for Orizaba; however I thought this peak to be a little tougher and more rugged than Orizaba. A worthy and interesting route. If Mexico ever becomes safe again to go to, I would like to do the entire traverse of Toluca as an acclimatization climb before Popo, if it ever stops erupting. Of course those are two big ifs.


bodofzt - Jan 9, 2017 1:06 pm Date Climbed: Jan 1, 2017

Pico del Fraile  Sucess!

I took the east route via Lago de la Luna and descended through the steep, long and boring "arenal". It was pretty easy up to 4500 m. After that, the inner slope was under a thick ice sheet that rendered further ascent nearly impossible without crampons. Here you have to be wise and take the outer, sunny slope, ALWAYS following the footsteps you see. Just before reaching the summit, there is a thin arête than can be dangerous under extreme conditions. Watch your step!


seano - Jan 1, 2016 11:47 am Date Climbed: Dec 25, 2015

East ridge  Sucess!

An easy day from the hut, with a bit of fun third class along the ridge and a good boot-ski back to Laguna del Sol. Hundreds of tourists, but weirdly most of them were headed for Arista de Humboldt rather than the summit. Trip report.


Curtissimo - Aug 26, 2014 8:37 pm Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2014

close but no cigar

We spent the night at the almost abandonded hut near the entrance, $100 pesos each. Bring a headlamp no power. They couldn't even be bothered to build a fire.

Problems started the next AM when our cousin's car broke down about 2 kms short of the trail. The road to crater is no longer open. The trail starts at the old upper huts (don't appear to be open for camping any more, just bathrooms and a simple vendor hut).

From there we had an extra 2 kms and estimated 250m of climb just to get to summit rim. We descended, then the family explored the lakes area. It is pretty cool place, like Crater Lake without the lake and add about 4 small to large puddles.

The trail heads straight up across the crater and turns right. I made that fine but on third hump I was totally stumped on how to find a passable route (a CL3 or less route that is). Alone and with storms coming in and my family below, I had to leave this for another day.

I think the situation may have a been a blessing in disguise, however, as the green valleys areound Toluca are absolutely beautiful. And the Xinantecatl park and massif are worthy of a few days of exploring and peak bagging, not unlike Mazama aka Crater Lake. Nearby Valle del Bravo would be a good place to spend a couple days after finishing up in the mountains.

Toluca, you are green and beautiful. We will be back!


TheGoat - Aug 10, 2014 10:35 pm Date Climbed: Mar 15, 2012

Best Missionary P-Day Ever  Sucess!

While on an LDS mission we got rare permission (twice!) to go to the top of this immense volcano. Of course, it was a taxi ride most of the way so it hardly counts as climbing a huge peak, but we did scramble up to what looked like one of the tallest peaks to us (likely the 2nd or third highest), and we were sure high and tried our best, so I'm counting it.


Kiefer - Feb 19, 2014 1:16 pm Date Climbed: Feb 6, 2014

Normal  Sucess!

With Sarah, Senad and Zhio

Senad Rizvanovic

Senad Rizvanovic - Feb 12, 2014 10:37 pm Date Climbed: Feb 6, 2014

Pico de Fraile  Sucess!

We took direct route, gully above Laguna de Sol, steep and loose rock, but no problems. Amazing views of crates lakes and entire Nevado de Toluca volcano, i did like this mountain and area.

Sarah Simon

Sarah Simon - Feb 10, 2014 10:50 am Date Climbed: Feb 6, 2014

Pico de Fraile from the crater lake  Sucess!

Very, very lovely area. We were the first people on the mountain and had the mountain to ourselves the entire day until our descent. After a restful night in San Martin Hacienda, we cruised up to the summit of Pico de Fraile from the lovely crater. The dry couloir was steep but forgiving, and I was impressed by the pleasantly rocky ridge to a relatively small summit. Great day, great welcome to Mexico's mountains! Finished off with a summit of Humboldt Peak - summitted both peaks of that group with Kiefer just to be sure. ;)

Woodie Hopper

Woodie Hopper - Jan 26, 2014 11:07 pm Date Climbed: Jan 26, 2014

Fraile, crater traverse  Sucess!

Climbed the day after arriving in Mexico with Mike Preece, Appleton Scutchfield and Ryan Swapp. Fun climb. Hundreds of locals were checking out the snow as we climbed back out of the caldera.

Joerg Marretsch

Joerg Marretsch - Dec 11, 2013 2:08 pm Date Climbed: Dec 5, 2013

Pico de Fraile  Sucess!

Nice hike to the summit of Pico de Fraile. Perfect weather conditions.

jsk8 - Feb 18, 2013 1:00 am Date Climbed: Feb 2, 1993

snowboard descent  Sucess!

the winter of 1992-93 featured more snow than usual on Nevado - some areas (Canada del Oso) still had snow in May. I descended on snowboard from just below the summit.


Laron - Aug 8, 2012 8:42 am

Rim Traverse  Sucess!

Did a complete rim traverse. Super fun.


jvonrueden - Jul 24, 2012 7:19 pm Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2012

complete rim traverse  Sucess!

I did the rim traverse today, it tools us about 5 hours including lunch and breaks. Rock pro is completely unnecessary, it's only 4th class scrambling. Snow gear isn't necessary in this season, two of my partners used below the ankle boots.

Chilisticos - Aug 11, 2011 11:53 am Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2011

Cerro Campanario on a cloudy day

Rented a car on the Paseo de Reforma, drove to Nevado de Toluca, and started to climb at 1pm...took me 3 hours to the Cerro Campanario and back through the Standard East Approach to Pico de Fraile. Had to stop before continuing further from Campanario as the visibility made it impossible to identify your way forward...will definitely try to come back and finish the job!

Shirley Lam

Shirley Lam - Feb 3, 2011 1:37 pm Date Climbed: Feb 2, 2011

Rim Traverse  Sucess!

Completed the rim traverse with Bighornmonkey. Beautiful views, great conditions, fun climbing! Yannick wrote a trip report of the climb on our blog:


bighornmonkey - Feb 3, 2011 1:30 pm Date Climbed: Feb 2, 2011

Rim traverse  Sucess!

did the rim traverse in perfect conditions, with trail running snow at all! Awesome views. We could see Popo and Izta in a distance, both looked snow-free as well.


logikal - Sep 21, 2009 4:13 pm Date Climbed: Jan 1, 2009

First High Altitude Summit  Sucess!

My first mountain above 6000 feet. Hiking to the crater from the entrance gate after only being in mexico for 12 hours was one hell of an introduction to high altitude climbing. I felt like my legs were made of lead. The following day i summited via some talus field on the outer rim.

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