Niagara Glen

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New York, United States, North America
Route Type:
Time Required:
Half a day

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Created On: Jul 13, 2004
Last Edited On: Jul 13, 2004


Start at Evergreen Flat 3 miles north of Niagara Falls Ontario off the Niagara parkway.

Route Description

In July of 1992, the Niagara Parks Commission responding to the Alpine Club of Canada opened the Niagara Glen to bouldering while continuing a ban on climbing the headwall. The ban including a prohibition on rappelling is presumably due to looseness of the headwall. The Glen is three miles or so north(downriver) from the falls and accessed by driving from the falls north on the Niagara Parkway(Ontario).to Evergreen Flat, where the car is parked. One descends the trail by a stair fixed to the rim rock.. Below one descends several hundred feet to the glen. Vertical distance is from 600 feet to 126 feet at river level. The river is about 60 meters wide at this point, and 1.3 times the volume of the Columbia and going about 30 mph in a stretch adjacent to the Glen known as the Devil’s Hole. But in the Niagara Glenn along the river, there are boulders that are quite popular with climbers. These stretch from Waterworld region at the south end of the glen to about ½ mile north to the Bizzaro region.. To leave the glen reverse your path up the trail or climb out of the gorge by following the path north(downriver). I saw this area from the jet boat and it is well forested with large boulders poking up. There is no “development”. The Niagara gorge looks quite primitive from the water’s edge

In the central area between Waterworld and Bizarro is a boulder called Cal’s Boulder. Here are some possibilities.

Cal's Boulder is the large boulder at the junction of the white, red, and purple trails. Cal's Problem is on the north face.

Right of Arete (5.10, 18 ft. )
FA: Dave Georger
Route added by pgm.
Climb the face around the right corner from Cal's Problem.
(No Comments about this problem ...)

Cal's Problem (5.11b/c, 22 ft. )
FA: Cal Flett
Route added by pgm.
Climb the obvious right leaning crack / seam system up to a pancake flake. Crank through some pockets to the top.
(No Comments about this problem ...)

Dumb and Dumber (V3, SD,BL)
FA: Andy Salo
Route added by andy.
Start under the huge horn on a large sloper. Traverse right to gain a set of flakes. Follow these up until you can step off onto the adjacent boulder
(No Comments about this problem ...)

See the map of Niagara Glen in the photo section.

Essential Gear

Rock slippers if you intend to boulder-othewise hiking boots.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Niagara Glen

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