Park at Wilcox Campground and proceed on the trail for 5 minutes then make a bee line for the mountain. The meadow going in is very scenic. The initial scramble from 7500' to the saddle at 9000' is not. You will encounter nasty scree here, but will be rewarded with a really fast descent on this same scree. I stayed to the right and then to the left of the obvious trail so I could take advantage of slab footing once in a while.
The saddle treats you to open views of an extremely desolate valley behind with a barren lake. Follow this ridge right and venture off to the left before the rock face of Nigel and traverse over to gain the north ridge to the summit. Here you will notice a reasonable size glacier that follows the ridge all the way to the summit and proceeds down into the valley which feeds the popular Nigel Falls on the road at the Big Bend.
Nothing specifically technical about this mountain, just use obvious caution below the headwall and stay off of the glacier. I always wear a helmet and take an ice axe. Great views of Athabasca, Columbia and Snow Dome (drains into 3 oceans!). My pictures and views were so-so due to smoke. These fires of 2003 are going to go down as some of the worse on record
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