Normal Route - Huascarán South.

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 9.1167°S / 77.6167°W
Additional Information Route Type: Glaciar climb, Ice climb.
Additional Information Time Required: Expedition
Additional Information Difficulty: AD
Sign the Climber's Log


From Huaraz it is possible to be rented to a transport to the town of Musho, located some hours to the north by the Alley of Huaylas on the feet of the Huascarán.

Once in Musho, it is possible to contract a carrier and its donkeys to transfer the load until the camping it bases Raimondi, approach that passes through a clear footpath that it allows to overcome the low part of the mountain until the 4,200 m.s in 6 hours of march. Additionally, the entrance corresponding to the entrance to the National Park is due to pay Huascarán(USS20).

Route Description

Immediately on the field it bases, is a rocky promontory that one is due to climb by a quite noticeable step; something difficult becomes to have to draw for it with the heavy knapsack reason why it does not have to be watched in less.

The route continues most of the time through a passage demarcated with stone monoliths by a granítico rocky land. It is very important to advance well kind since it is easy to turn aside itself and any correción in this section could imply I crawl on unexpected rock. Already at the top of this rocky sector, continuous now by a footpath that zigzags awhile until arriving at the Refuge Moraine (4670 m.s). The Camping Moraine situa just a little upon the refuge, to about a 4700-4750, where between lajas of rock there are some sites to encamp and where there is water close. Continuing of the field Moraine upwards, they become to descry a series of monoliths that allow to guide themselves through rocks and to come near to a glacier language that begins to about 4,800 m.s of height. Commonly, on the glacier an affluent track marked by crampones of the previous cordadas ones can be descried, but in the case of not existing, it would be necessary to follow in the direction of the South end of the col between the North Huscarán and the South Advancing by a slope slope smooth, and after a 3-4 hours of march from the field Moraine, it is arrived at a sector of little propitious slope to install Camping 1 (+/- 5,200 ms.)

From Field 1, smooth plains in direction NE go back to arriving at traver themselves that it raises, with some sections of 40 degrees, to arriving at a denominated zone "the throat", which, depending on the season, can present/display a great barrier of seracs. From there, the last one of a canal is due to look for, that often appears like a vertical wall of some meters, but that soon becomes a gutter of about 50 degrees of inclination. Once surpassed east step, already on the 5,700 meters, exposing is due to make to traver itself in North direction, towards the col between two summits of the Huascarán, in search of Camping 2 to 5,900 meters. This zone very is exposed to the fall of great ice blocks, thus is ideal in the morning to pass it to early hours.

Camping 2 is located to the west of a great crack that is to the entrance the west of the col between the North and South summit of the Huascarán right. To spend the night in this camping, to start off early for the following morning by the summit. For it, to cross the great crack and to advance in direction and by the col for, later, overcoming the North face of the South summit doing clear to enormous blocks of ice and cracks in search of the way that finally arrives at the superior part from the enormous cap glacier that slowly accedes to an enormous and flat summit with incredible views to all the White Mountain range.

Essential Gear

By cordada: Equipment of camping of high mountain (to include snow stakes for the carp). Several ice screws snow Stakes for rapel 2 prudent droughts of 9 mm of 50 ms. Tapes express

By person: Full field equipment of shelter of high mountain 2 piolet technicians Crampones Helmet (ideal with antiboot) Harness

Miscellaneous Info

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Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

Viewing: 1-2 of 2

Andinista - Mar 23, 2005 2:42 pm - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

Itinerary 1 :

Huaraz - Musho - Raimondi Field Raimondi Field - Field Moraine Field Moraine - Field 1 Field 1 - Field 2 Field 2 - Summit - Field 2 Field 2 - Field Moraine Field Moraine - Musho - Huaraz This itinerary considers cordadas previously acclimated.

Itinerary 2:

Huaraz - Much - Raimondi Field Raimondi Field - Field 1 Field 1 - Summit - Field 1 Field 1 - Raimondi Field Field Raimondi - Musho - Itinerary Huaraz hard. It implies to walk very light and to absolutely be acclimated to be able to advance express


Andinista - Mar 23, 2005 2:45 pm - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

The months of good weather are June, July and August. Although the time usually changes suddenly, is known that there are good and bad seasons from the climatic point of view. Another important variable is the moon change that makes worse the climate during about 3 to 5 days, with rains, snow-covered, low clouds and much wind, this last one is specially strong in the col that the North and South summits form. To be a hill highly visited, the normal route or of "the throat" of the South Huascarán is changing its level of difficulty as it advances the season. During the first weeks, it is common found with deep snow, which long ago more desgastante the advance, and obvious the route is previous free from anchorages and marks. On the contrary, if the last weeks of the season are chosen is possible to be with a good track of affluent hard snow, edges of cracks demarcated and the route equipped with stakes and tugs in certain sections

Viewing: 1-2 of 2



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