Normal Route via Laguna Glaciar

Normal Route via Laguna Glaciar

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 15.85302°S / 68.54093°W
Additional Information Route Type: glacier climb, some ice
Additional Information Time Required: A few days
Additional Information Difficulty: PD - D (depending on the final ascent)
Sign the Climber's Log


Organize 4x4 and mules in Sorata (Trekking agencies are near the main square - they also organize porters).
From Sorata 4x4 transport (usually Toyota Landcruiser) is available to near Estancia Tusca Jahuira (3600m).

Route Description

Day 1

4x4 transport to near Estancia Tusca Jahuira (3600m). Continue with mules (and mules driver) to
(a) Laguna Chillata (4204m) - nice camp site or
(b) near the abandoned mine of Titisani (you have to carry the rucksacks yourself for the last 30 minutes - mules cannot do the descent from the col nearby).
camp near Laguna Chillata... camp near Laguna Chillata
sunset at Laguna Chillata Sunset at Laguna Chillata

Day 2

From the mine of Titisani continue southwards on an acceptable trail to Laguna Glaciar (5038m)
Walking up to Laguna Glaciar... Walking up to Laguna Glaciar
sunset at Laguna Glaciar... Sunset at Laguna Glaciar
sunset - Pico Schulze and... sunset - Pico Schulze and Laguna Glaciar

Day 3

From Laguna Glaciar start towards SE (hard to find the track near Laguna Glaciar).
Follow the track up the moraine and stay westward (left hand side) of the glacier (near Point 5462m - you have to cross some meters over the glacier - DAV map).
Continue on the glacier (approx. 5600m) - crevasses!! - to the high camp at approx. 5800/5900m (high camp is usually on the plateau between Point 5962m and the summit of Ancohuma.

There are also possible campsites on the moraine (approx. 5400m) and on the glacier 5600m (this place is very windy and cold).
en route to the high camp... en route to the high camp
Ancohuma from the high camp Ancohuma from the high camp

Day 4

Climb up to the summit via SW ridge and descent via W-face/NW ridge to the High Camp and continue back to Laguna Glaciar.
Climbing up Ancohuma -... Climbing up Ancohuma
descent to Laguna Glaciar... descent to Laguna Glaciar
sunset on the descent to... descent on the descent

Day 5

Descent to Sorata.

Essential Gear

sleeping bag
sleeping pad
Goretex jacket
Goretex pants
down jacket
mitts + gloves
double plastic boots
ski poles
ice axe
ice screw

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
approach map map



Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.