normal (south)

Approach

Ferret (Valais, Switzerland) or Arnouva (Aosta, Italy) to Bivacco (Cesare) Fiorio.

Route Description

The normal route is described in guide books (see main section of mountain).
However, the submitter would like to stress, that this was the most dangerous peak he ever climbed. The final section is absolutely direct on icy 45%. On the way up you may be able to avoid being exactly underneath other climbers / parties, with difficulty. On the way down, there is no way to control who is following you ...
Also, there are crevasses.

Essential Gear

Crampons and ice axe essential. Rope and crevasse rescue gear and knowledge highly recommended.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.