North Buttress

Approach

Start from Goodell Creek and approach to Crescent Creek Basin.

From Crescent Creek Basin, traverse west and ascend to the col between the Himmelhorn and the Ottohorn. Descend from the col by downclimbing steep snow and ice or rappelling to McMillan Cirque below the Mustard Glacier and traverse to the base of Mount Terror.

Route Description

The climb can be divided into two section: the lower face (below the prominent ramp) and the upper face (above the prominent ramp).

Access the face from the west. Begin left of the snowfield near the bottom of the face. Climb above the snowfield and slowly traverse rightward while ascending (long pitches, mostly 3rd class). Continue the ascending traverse as the terrain steepens following dihedrals and cracks. Aim for the right (west) crest of the buttress about 2/3rds the way up the lower face as the rock darkens. Remain on the crest only briefly (climbing should be no harder than 5.7). Move back left onto the face aiming for a chimney above an awkward belay. Climb the steep and blocky chimney to reach the prominent eastward trending ramp below the upper face. At the top of the ramp (comfortable bivy site), make a short traverse eastward above the Degenhardt Glacier to a good belay station below another steep and blocky chimney. Climb the chimney and on to the upper north face. Follow a long, solid off-width crack to large blocks below the false summit. Resist the urge to bypass the false summit. Climb the false summit directly (easy 5th class) along an exposed hand traverse. Scramble down the false summit and up to the true summit. Descend the west ridge; be careful to descend the west ridge coming off the false summit. The true summit ridge descent leads to impassable cliffs and gullies.

Essential Gear

Medium alpine rack with emphasis on medium cams and slings. Ice axe and crampons are necessary to negotiate the glaciers. An ice screw or two can help to protect crossing the moat to get to the route.

Miscellaneous Info

Here's my trip report of Mount Terror from our Picket Range Traverse.

Images

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