North Eolus Climber's Log

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ericd - Aug 13, 2023 6:24 pm Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2023

Satisfying Quickie  Sucess!

7pm evening traverse to N. Eolus with calm winds and not a cloud in the sky. Rejoined trail at the saddle and then down.


birdhead - Feb 24, 2023 1:31 pm Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2022

Four in a Day from Camp  Sucess!

Fourth peak of the day after getting Sunlight, Windom, and Eolus beforehand. Scramble up from the saddle is short but fun! Easiest of the four peaks.

Matt McCullough

Matt McCullough - Sep 16, 2022 10:47 pm Date Climbed: Sep 10, 2022

After Mount Eolus on a misty morning in September  Sucess!

Peak #2 of a four 14'nr odyssey.


BKiser90 - Aug 29, 2022 1:29 pm Date Climbed: Aug 28, 2022

Chicago Basin #3  Sucess!

Since we were rained off the catwalk of Eolus on our first full day in Chicago Basin we had to sneak the summit in on the day we departed. Started from camp at 3:30 am after fending off a porcupine in camp for an hour and half earlier. We made quick work and summited North Eolus before 5:45 am. We waited until a little more light to downclimb back to the Eolus saddle.


JesseSumrak - Aug 29, 2022 10:11 am Date Climbed: Aug 28, 2022

N. Eolus + Eolus  Sucess!

Had to get a very early start to get back in time to catch the train back to Durango. Made it up to North Eolus quickly (too quickly) and had to summit in the dark, which I didn't thoroughly enjoy leading since I had no idea where I was going. Regardless, it was relatively straightforward and we were on it well before sunrise. Waited for a bit of light before downclimbing and then beginning the catwalk over to Eolus. Woooooo exposure had me shaking in my boots, but then the way up Eolus from there was pretty straightforward. Easy way down and happy trails.


Scott - Aug 24, 2022 6:36 pm Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2022

North Eolus  Sucess!

July 1

The trip got off to a rough start. The weather forecast was bad for the weekend and in the morning we found that Shaylee had forgotten her shoes. She only had Crocs.

My dad, Shaylee, and I rode the Durango Silverton Train to Needleton and started hiking from there. We made it to Chicago Basin, but much of the hike was in the rain. The evening was pretty clear though.

July 2

We awoke to clear skies and 36 degrees F. Perfect. My dad, Shaylee, and I headed for Twin Lakes, but Shaylee and I split from my dad part way up.

Shaylee made it to 13,000 feet or so in her Crocs, but that was about all she could manage in those shoes, so she headed down. I continued up to the saddle between North Eolus and Eolus. I climbed Eolus first. It was a bit spicier than I expected.

I then headed back to the saddle and climbed North Eolus. It was a fun little scramble and pretty easy. I then headed back to camp. The weather held.

At around 7 PM and when we were eating dinner, the rain started.

July 3

It rained most of the night. Shaylee and I also found that our tent leaked and water dripped on our heads all night long. In the morning and in the rain, I set off to climb Sunlight Peak, hoping that it might clear later. I rained hard the whole way up towards Twin Lakes. Short of the lake, I gave up and gave back down. I didn't want Shaylee to have to wait in the rain either.

We packed up camp and then headed down to Needleton, where we caught the train a day early.

Missing the summit of Sunlight Peak was a bitter blow to me since I don't think I'll be able to make it back this year and I was hoping to finally finish off the 14ers.


JRaphaelson - Aug 15, 2022 4:46 pm Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2022

Sunlight, Windom, Eolus, and North Eolus  Sucess!

A tough but rewarding four peak challenge! In your face exposure for most of the day!

Woodie Hopper

Woodie Hopper - Sep 8, 2021 8:30 pm Date Climbed: Sep 7, 2021

Chicago Basin 4 pack (1st of 4 14ers)  Sucess!

Started from the Purgatory TH at around midnight. Nice warm up for the other 3 14ers. Straightforward. Beautiful day without wind, but too warm.


Kiefer - Aug 28, 2021 7:58 am Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2021

Iffy Weather  Sucess!

Had to duck down below for the weather to clear out. Only grappuled, some rain, but the clouds were insanely dark. Fun scramble on pink granite.


yadahzoemtn - Mar 15, 2020 10:07 am Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2019

In combination with Eolus  Sucess!

One of my most memorable days in the mountains


Moogie737 - Aug 30, 2019 10:22 am Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2019

An exclamation point after climbing Eolus  Sucess!

#1 08-27-19 W/ Yadahzoemtn. A quick ten minutes from the saddle between Eolus and North Eolus on grippy rock. No cairns but it's because they aren't necessary. 'Twas a fun final 14er for our stay in the majestic awe-inspiring Chicago Basin. This brings the total of 14ers climbed with my climbing partner to 53.


eli.boardman - Dec 27, 2018 12:10 pm Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2018

Quick scramble  Sucess!

Solo scramble after Eolus; 14er number 57


Wheelbarrow - Feb 5, 2018 11:25 pm Date Climbed: Jun 17, 2017

#16  Sucess!

Started from Purgatory at sunset. Ran 12 miles and set up a hammock at 2am off the side of the trail. Woke at 8am and meandered my way up the last 6 miles to N. Eolus. Still lots of snow but can avoid :)

utclimber - Oct 16, 2016 5:14 pm

North Eolus  Sucess!

Visited North Eolus after Eolus.


RMdaytripsgrl - Jul 21, 2016 6:38 pm Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2016

Super Fun  Sucess!

Standing half way across the catwalk and too tired to deal with the final face of Eolus, we consoled ourselves by climbing up N Eolus before descending. Glad we did it, really fun and easy. Darn it, have to go back to Chi Basin to get Eolus someday! lol.


voxnihili - Aug 17, 2015 11:07 am Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2015

Fun  Sucess!

Fun climb. Excellent views.


astroclimber - Sep 20, 2014 10:04 pm Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2014

Fun Trip  Sucess!

Fantastic last summit of the trip with Kat and Dave. Excellent views fun scrambling great peak.

Senad Rizvanovic

Senad Rizvanovic - Jul 30, 2014 8:09 pm Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2014

From Eolus  Sucess!

Great little scramble after Eolus.


shanahan96 - Jul 14, 2014 3:08 pm Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2012

good vantage point  Sucess!

nice stop along the way to eolus, but i wouldn't consider this anything more than a bump on eolus' ridge.



chicagotransplant - Jan 22, 2014 7:31 pm Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2008

Bonus Summit  Sucess!

Climbed on the way down off Eolus, also climbed Glacier Point. Climbed with Jamie.

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