North Eolus is the often ignored neighbor of the higher Mount Eolus. Although it is an un-ranked peak, it is a named point above 14,000 feet and a worthy goal while bagging Eolus proper. A surprising number of hikers simply climb Eolus and don't take the extra 15 minutes to get North Eolus as well. The views from the summit are excellent and provide a unique vantage of numerous San Juan peaks including Mount Eolus, Pigeon and the Trinities.
Eolus group from the slopes of Windom
North Eolus from Eolus
Chicago Basin is the obvious approach to the Eolus group. Taking the train saves you a long hike and is pretty cool. Unfortunately, fares have been going up recently so it is a little pricey. Check the railroad's WEBSITE
for current information.
The only route I know of on North Eolus is very straight-forward. You simply follow the climber's route
up Eolus to the ridgeline between Eolus and North Eolus when you first glimpse the catwalk. You then simply turn right and take a straight line up towards the summit. There is some minor class 3 scrambling but it is short and easy. This would be an excellent warm-up or warm-down to Eolus.
Minor scrambling en route
Looking back from the summit.
There is excellent camping in Chicago Basin. Just make sure you stay within the boundaries of the camping zone. There is no camping at the upper lake or within 100 feet of water and trails.
Weather and Conditions
These peaks are climbed year round but offer the most for everyone under good conditions. Make sure to check the weather and the avy forecast to ensure the best time. Getting rained on in Chicago Basin happens to lots of folks and is not much fun.
I also like the Denver Channel's Futurecast