North Face/North-East Ridge

North Face/North-East Ridge

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 50.53330°N / 115.2167°W
Additional Information Route Type: Basic Snow/Glacier
Additional Information Time Required: Most of a day
Additional Information Difficulty: 5.5
Sign the Climber's Log


The trailhead is in the parking lot of the Uppper Kananaskis Lake. Follow the trail along the edge of the lake. near the far end the trail will head up to the left to Hidden Lake (sometime empty). Then follow the trail around this lake to the left and then up through the trees to the loose scree slope at the end. Go past fossil falls to Aster Lake. (3-5 hour to here) Camp here. From the end of the lake (camp) head west then south around the NNW spur of Mt. Marlborough cross the moraine to reach the of the glacier which decends from the north face of Joffre. Cross the glacier to the base of the face. From here take one of two routes. Either directly up the noth face or to the left up the gully to the rocky ridge to the summit. Descend via the ridge and gully the original NE ridge route.

Route Description

Glacier crossing and snow climb for direct approach.
Ice screws or pickets.
Basic scramble on the NE Ridge.

Essential Gear

Crampons and Ice axe. Helmut. Winter gear. Rope for direct approach and glacier crossing. Ice screws and or pickets.
Good boots that will take crampons
Wind shell
Fleese jacket
Wind pants
Ice Axe
A water tight bag for your food to place in Aster lake is a good idea. Bears are a problem often here.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.



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