North Face of Hamlin Peak

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 45.92420°N / 68.9287°W
Additional Information Route Type: Ice and Snow Climb
Additional Information Time Required: Half a day
Additional Information Difficulty: WI 2+ III
Sign the Climber's Log


Blueberry Knoll trail from Chimney pond to the North Basin. Hike through boulderfield to the base of the obvious snow field (on the left) that heads up to the summit cliffs of Hamlin Peak.

Route Description

Climb snow for 800-900' to the base of the cliff band. You can use bush belays on either side of the main snow line, but the snow is quite easy. AI1

Climb water ice for 200' in a gully that splits the middle of the cliff band. The first pitch is around 200' of WI2+ ice.

Climb an easier pitch of WI2- ice for 200' to a rock./ice belay on the left.

Climb another 350-400' of thin snow and ice up to the summit cairn. Three options exist after the end of the water ice section. The leftmost variation is thin snow with difficult to find gear up to 60 degrees in angle. The center is easiest with AI 1 snow and rock anchors and the right is similar in nature to the left finish.

To descend, follow the Hamlin Ridge trail back to chimney pond.

Essential Gear

Bring 5-6 ice screws including some stubbies for the water ice sections. A selection of knifeblade pitons, Lost arrows and an alpine rack of nuts and cams will be sufficient for the upper sections. Bring a picket or two if you are unsure of the lower section. You can bail out to the Hamlin ridge before entering the water ice section by traversing left below the summit cliffs.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.


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