North face

Page Type
Austria, Europe
Route Type:
Spring, Fall, Winter
Time Required:
Half a day
ZS/ZS+ (Ice 50-80°)
Number of Pitches:

Route Quality: 2 Votes

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North face
Created On: Feb 26, 2008
Last Edited On: Mar 17, 2009


This north face in the ötztal Alps is relative unknown. Most climbers that are staying at the Martin Busch Hut don't choose to climb the Mutmalspitze and his north face. Therefore you will find yourself climbing in a very quiet north face, without other climbers.

After a long ascent you'll find a short, crevasse-covered ice face. The conditions of the face are very variable. At the start of the face there is a steep section of ice (sometimes up to 80º). Always check the rescent conditions in Vent or at the Martin Busch Hut.

Tough climbers might combine this route with the Hintere Schwärze north face or the Similaun north face.

First ascent by: A.Czernotzky, M.Hiller, O.Metzger and Rasch in 1927.
The North FaceThe north face of the Mutmalspitze

Getting There

In general:

See the Mutmalspitze page.

To the Martin Busch Hut:

See the Mutmalspitze page.

To the face:

From the Martin Busch Hut a short descent to cross the Niederjochbach. At the other side you will have to find your way up left of the large moraine. Then go pretty steep upwards to the Mutmal glacier. Don't go to much to the right. Approach the face with a large turn to avoid the crevasses.
The ascent to the North FaceOn the approach

Route Description

The best way to start the climb is at the left side of the face. After a short climb you get at the steep section of ice. Depending on the conditions you cross it (variable steepness 50-80º). After that the difficulties are less high. Go straight up to the summit or a little bit right of it. The last part is less steep, average angle of 45-50º.
At the bottom of the North FaceAt the start of the face

The steep section in the North FaceThe steep section

Essential Gear

Normal Alpine ice climbing gear:
-2 ice tools
-a few ice screws

External Links

See the Mutmalspitze page

North face

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