Final peak on a traverse from Thunderbolt with Glenn and Curt. In contrast to Bob's experience, we found the section between Starlight and North Pal to be a fair bit easier than the section between Thunderbolt and Starlight--but carrying a rope, we probably made different choices than he did. There was one rappel along the way that we wouldn't have had a prayer of downclimbing.
Couldn't make heads or tails of Secor's route descriptions on the summit, and ended up rapping off the summit and following a mystery chute down. Found ducks, footprints, and a convenient ledge system to take us down into the main SW Chute. I guess we stumbled upon the LeConte route...
An excellant peak, I wish I could've enjoyed the summit a bit more but the reality of having to hike back to T-bolt pass in the dark made me cut it to 5 minutes. Still no book in the register, just a dull pencil and a few bits of paper. For more details see Mark's (Pellucid Wombat) impending trip report.
An exciting climb, I found the chimney difficult due to the altitude. We made the mistake of bringing only one nine mm rope. The snow conditions in the U-Notch were perfect in early morning. By afternoon we encountered slush over hard ice, and rockfall. It took us forever to rappel the couloir with only one 165 foot rope.
Still, it was a great day. I'll never forget the view from the top!
Soloed U-Notch, then climbed the chimney. Added Starlight and Polemonium for a 3 peak day.
Great climb. One of the best 14ers in the Sierra. The summit puts up a good fight.
Climbed up from the notch separating Starlight and North Palisade. Part of a day hike from South Lake where we tagged Thunderbolt, Starlight and finished here. Climbed with my little bro Curt and Matthew Holliman.
Was planning on bagging Polemonium next, but got chased off by thunderstorms.
Fun snow climb. Snow is getting harder. Tagged the summit and the got pounded by a fierce snow storm all the way back down to camp by the terminal moraine.
Very fun climb, a challenge to surmount the bergschrund, then hard neve to the notch. The chimney pitches were fairly easy with a minimal rack. One of my favorite summits. Stayed too long and had some rockfall in the couloir coming down.
Great Climb! Getting across bergshrund was a bit tricky, but our semi-large group (6) was able to get up and back to camp by sunset.
Windy, cloudy and cold, cold on top.
I climbed North Palisade in June of 2000, along with guide Brendon Cusick of AAI, via U-Notch. We climbed Mount Sill the next day.
Did this with Sara Steck on a day off from our duties with the Palisade School of Mountaineering. Swinging that ole' Chouinard wooden piolet into the ice, and a wierd little Salewa ice hammer. A great route. Ice went all the way to the notch then, haven't seen it several years, but form pictures it looks like rock the last few yards. Pity of that's the case, it had a real kick in the pants finish!
By far the best part of our traverse from Thunderbolt to Polemonium. We stayed on the very edge of the ridge that featured some 5.7-5.8 moves. Free-solo.
Click for the trip report.
After an awesome night camped at the U Notch, watching the Perseid meteor shower, we headed up. Some nasty weather was moving in quickly so we took in the views and headed off toward Starlight. A terrific summit.
Cloudless sky, good snow bridge in about the middle of the 'schrund. From the top of the chimney we dropped off the ridge about 100' and traversed over then up to the summit. This was easier and less exposed than staying right on the ridge.
Fabulous day, from a bivvy near terminal moraine of Palisade Gl. I climbed the couloir direct - all the snow & ice I could find (did not move onto the rock as suggested in Secor, & Roper). Couloir was quite straightforward until near its top where there are 3 chockstones, which gave me body-length vertical ice steps - exciting when one is soloing (had 2 ice tools, & used 'em!). Once out of the couloir traversed up & left on steep ground until hitting the top corner of the N. Face snow field, then straight up to the summit (again, steep rock). On the traverse I discovered an old Chouinard oval with 2 pristine Chouinard nuts slung with perlon - sweet find for my alpine museum.
Downclimbed the U-Notch, which had a lot of exposed blue ice for that early in the season.
Perfect snow climb, sunny day!
Solo from Sam Mack Meadow up the U-Notch. On the descent, I went did Polemonium.