Linked up Polemonium, North Palisade and Starlight from camp in Palisade basin. Beautiful area, and saved several peaks to make sure there will be a "next time."
Dave Smith and I climbed the U-Notch in about a 12 hour day from Galey camp.
Amazing views from the top.
bivy spot below the summit. I wish I could wake up every morning to a beautiful view like that!
Up it 3 times! Last was during a palisade traverse where we bivied a few feet down from the summit of North Pal.
climbed with fbagni. Awoke at 3AM and left camp at 4AM. The berg was easy-passable via a 70-degree ramp and we climbed 5 pitches (70m rope) of blue, grey, black, and glass ice to the notch. Climbed 2 easy pitches of rock to the ridge and traversed to the summit. Rapped the ice finishing the last 4 raps in the dark. Worn, bruised, and tired, we made it back to camp at 2AM after 22 hrs on the move. A full day, glad to finally climb North Pal via the U-notch on ice. one more CA 14er left...
A good one to bag. Definitely no gimme....
We found a catwalk about 100 feet above the standard catwalk which we used on the ascent. We used the traditinal catwalk on the descent. One more 14er to go.
My first taste of class 4 alone..... FUN!
T-bolt to Polemonium with Shay. Altitude + regular sick = "double whammy". Nice views. Looks like some good rock climbing could be had on the West side of the Palisades.
A great climb, got some snow and ice, a few pitches of rock and some ridge traversing.
I don't really remember this summit. It's lost in a blur of scrambling and soloing along the ridge.
Tough hike for me with Dan and Kurt. 11 hour summit day from Barrett Lakes area.
Day hiked T-bolt to Sill traverse with fossana and mybackyard. Swaped rappels with poorboy44 and Shy.
Route Climbed: Traverse from Starlight
Date Climbed: September 9, 2006
Climbed with Javier and DustysDawg. Part of the Thunderbolt to Sill traverse single day push (18 hrs: South Lake/T-bolt to Sill traverse/Glacier Lodge). Just right below the summit, this was the only place in the whole T-bolt/Sill traverse where I needed a belay for a short (less than 10 foot) climb. We went around to the left (east) side instead of the right (west) side as Peter Croft suggests. Left side (east) felt like 5.7. Javier & DustysDawg solo'ed that.
Route Climbed: U-Notch
Date Climbed: June 19, 2005
Third time was the charm after two previous attempts (sept 2002 and aug 2004). My partner on this climb was Gibran Begum. We started hiking from Glacier Lodge at 8pm Friday and made camp at the First Lake at 11:30pm. We slept in Saturday morning and didn't get going until after 10am. Encountered pretty good snow coverage starting with the slope up to Sam Mack Meadow. Found a great snow dug out camping spot like 300 yards east of the Palisade Glacier tarn/lake. Rested the rest of the afternoon (melting snow, sorting gear....your usual camping chores). At 3:30am Sunday the alarm went off and left camp at 4:30am. To my surprise we reached the bergshrund by 5:50am (in my other 2 previous "late season" attempts, it'd take over 2 hrs to reach the 'shrund). There is a snow bridge in the bergshrund that is not going to last very long....from what I saw the bergshrund is going to be problematic later this season as it is split into one big gap and a smaller one lower down. We had hard snow (no neve; I wish we had neve). We climbed the U-notch unroped and we're at the top of the U-notch by 7:30am, where moderate winds greeted us and kept me cold when I wasn't moving. We rested here and geared up for the 2 rock pitches up the chimney. Started up the chimney at 8:05am. I led the first pitch while Gibran took the second. Between routefounding and avoiding snow/ice covered ledges, we didn't get to the summit until 10:30am. The summit register needs a log and a pen/pencil as of June 19, 2005; there was not a summit log there, just the empty cylindrical metal canister. We were back again at the top of the U-notch by 12pm. Took another long rest here....sheltered against the wind. We started down just before 1pm by rapping down the last pitch (also the steepest) of the U-notch. Then, we just carefully downclimbed the rest and keeping a keen eye for the 'shrund. We made it back to our camp around 3:30pm (11 hrs after leaving it). Broke up camp and hiked out just before 5pm. Got to the Glacier Lodge trailhead by 8:40pm, where my sandals never felt so good. Home in LA by 1:00am Monday.
Route Climbed: U-Notch
Date Climbed: August 21, 2004
An epic.....26 hours roundtrip from the Palisade glacier high camp (12,200'). Trip report.
Route Climbed: U-Notch
Date Climbed: September 1, 2002
Did not summit (made it up to 13,400 ft). Steve Ford and I made Sam Mack Meadow (11,000 ft) our only basecamp. Started walking from Sam Mack around 5:30am. Got to the bergshrund around 9:00am. Waited for a party above us to get higher; started climbing at the late hour of 9:30am. Meanwhile, there was another climbing party of 2 right behind us on the queue. After our 1st pitch we see this party trying to pass us on the ice and crossing the ropes (they should have waited 'til we got much higher; they were going to get chunks of ice from us). Anyway, at 1:30pm (elev ~ 13,400') we decided to rap down due to our slow progress. The U-Notch on 9/1/02 was hard ice. Bersgshrund is crossable towards the right side without getting onto the rock. I was looking forward to the rock chimney. I'll have to come back again, but (1) set up a high camp near the Palisade Glacier tarn, (2) 4:00am alpine start so that I can be at the bergshrund by 6:00am or earlier, and (3) don't go on a weekend, especially Labor Day weekend (too crowded). Live and Learn!
Traversed from Starlight with mybackyard and forjan. Thanks to Scotty & Shy for swapping raps with us.
Traverse dayhike with fossana & forjan.
From Starlight we crossed the Clyde Couloir and then climbed up the West Face. Most of the terrain seemed to be 4th class with a few 5th class sections thrown in for variety. This was the highlight of our T-bolt to Sill traverse and probably the most difficult section of the entire day.
Loose, but worth the effort, plus camping in Palisade Basin was amazing. Pics here.
Marty and I did the T-bolt to North Pal traverse from South Lake TH; ~15 hrs CTC. Got pushed off of North Pal by lightening ~1pm; otherwise another great day in the Sierras with great company.
A four day trip with SMI as part of Summit for Someone fund raising climb. First night at third lake. Second night at Palisade glacier. AM start up the U notch. Crossed the Bergschrund on the far right. Snow turned to ice about half way up the notch where we were able to climb on the rocks. Managed some "old school" class 3 to the summit. Beautiful day with a bit of wind. Got back to high camp by 4PM. Hiked out on the forth day.
summit for someone climb pictures
I climbed the U-notch from Palisade Glacier with my friend Dan after flying over the Sierra in his Cessna; what an experience! The bergschrund is passable on the right, but it's on ice, not snow; we placed some pro on the right and used the rock a little to get pass the steepest parts. Also, the "Clyde Variation" does not start 40-50 ft. below the U-Notch as described, it's more like 15; the beginning open book is not class 3, it's easily class 4. We debated if this was even the correct route at first because open book (more like a chimney) was not trivial; however, the remaining moves around the corner were fun class 3/4.