Solo climb up this enjoyable route. Short, but a good half day climb. Summit register full.
An enjoyable outing. On the second trip, Trudi Schwarz and I led a group of kids to the summit. They were completely stoked.
Full ice. Bergschrund very passable on left. 3 pitches and 30 feet of change with 60m rope. Used rock and ice pro. Went with partner, but would also be a nice solo.
My first true peak. Hiked up from Saddlebag lake on the south side, up some loose scree and bushes. Ended up on top of the north coulouir and continued easy 5.0 climbing to the top! Went down the south ridge, then up the north ridge of Conness. Great day!
Late start, great climb up the couloir. My first serious snow/ice climb, and first guided climb. Passed by a solo climber while in the couloir. Found the couloir itself to be ho-hum snow climbing, but really liked the rock scramble from the notch to the summit.
Over Labor Day 2000, Michael Gordon and I soloed the left North Peak Couloir in 6.5 hours RT from the Saddlebag Lake. We found good ice in the couloir and thin cover of snow above the notch. We summited North Peak and ran down to our car. On the summit, we marveled at the possibility of climbing North Peak Couloir, going to the top of North Peak, then crossing over to Mt.Conness and climbing the Nort Ridge from the saddle between it and North Peak then descend to Saddlebag Lake. What a trip that would be. One of these days..
Very enjoyable climb. Car to summit 3 1/2 hours. 2 hours back to car. Perfect weather.
6 of us climbed the left gully after watching a boulder fly down the mountain at the base of the couloirs. I nice moderate snow / ice climb.
fun, short route. simulclimbed most of it on neve.
Soloed the right couloir today. Weather was sunny and warm wore shorts and a t-shirt. Didnt see any other climbers on the mountain. Snow was perfect neve
A great 1st couloir climb! Conditions were good - 4 pitches from the 'schrund with solid ice screw belays. Definitely recommended!!
According to Secor, the Northwest Ridge is 5.3, but it seemed more like Class 4. After bagging North Peak, I continued on to Mount Conness via its North Ridge. Car to car in 4:55. (BTW, the North Peak summit Register is full).
Great climb. Very asthetic route. the couloir was a little soft. We got started on it at 9:30, and though it was in the shade, it was quite mushy. All in all a beautiful and very enjoyable climb though and the water taxi makes it very easy as a day trip!!!
On Snow or dirt, a good day hike. The boat ride on the second half of the trip home is a bonus.
Crampons, surely feel strange for the first time. SInce, then I am so psyched that I get high just thinking about it. B$ took me to climb that, and I can't have enough of it...I loved using the ice-axes...(Suddenly, I felt all mighty and powerful, ego -boost)
tried to do the conness crest, but got lightninged out. what a great day though!
Did the right couloir in August (nice neve) and the left one in late September (nice neve with occasional water ice). Didn't summit in September since we had just been up there, Both are nice climbs, with the left being a bit steeper.
An excellent scramble. Headed out from Saddlebag Lake, up North Peak, across to Shepherd Crest, to Excelsior, and returning. A long day! Trip Report
Very nice couloir. Conditions range from a no crampons, step-kicking romp in spring, to a fairly strenuous two tool, front pointing outing in the late fall. Took someone this year who put on crampons below the schrund for the first time in her life. Man was she psyched after 700 feet of hard styrofoam later. Check out the 2 couloirs to the left too, middle one is ugly, but left is nice (and steep).
Also, N Ridge is good, only climbing of any consequence in a 5.8 or so 15 boulder problem coming out of a deep notch. You can probably avoid it by heading down west of the ridge a bit. Most is fun 4th class. Swing on over to N Rdige Conness for a great day.
Highly recommend this route for anyone wanting to do their first ice climb. The approach is relatively short,spectacularly beautiful and the climb itself is easy and fun with objective danger pretty low. When we did the route there was ice on the first pitch and then we moved to the left side of the couloir which had consolidated, hard pack snow, which made for faster climbing and belay set up faster by just plugging in our axes to the hilt for belay anchors. Enjoy the area, it is beatiful and stays moist late into the season when most other areas have dried up and died.