North ridge

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 46.06550°N / 7.69050°E
Additional Information Route Type: gneis climb, glacier
Additional Information Time Required: Most of a day
Additional Information Difficulty: III+
Sign the Climber's Log


Start at Mountet hut (2868 m) and follow the tracks on the moraine of the Glacier du Mountet to a place just below the saddle at 3188 m and step on the glacier there. Stay near the ridge as long as possible, cross finally the bergschrund and reach the shoulder (L'Epaule 4017 m) which is part of the north ridge.

Route Description

Easy walk on the north ridge, leave the first gendarme on your right. The ridge gets more and more narrow end culminates at the razor. You can climb over it or go around on your right.

The next gendarme is the sphinx, traverse it on the Mountet side. The ridge gets narrow again and offers another razor (Bourrique). Now a wide tower (Bosse) invites you, but can be very difficult after a snow fall. Afterwards easy to the summit.

5 hours from the Mountet hut, difficulty III+ if completely dry to very difficult in snow and ice.

Book: Walliser Alpen, Volume II (Clubf├╝hrer SAC in german or french).

Link for books and maps:
Literature and Maps

Essential Gear

rope, axe, crampons

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

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Probemeister - Jan 3, 2006 2:20 pm - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

Why have local guides fixed any equipment on this route? It is a classic of the golden age of Alpinism, not a modern desperate lacking in protection opportunities.

This smacks of local guides trying to sell mountaineering as a risk free sport for all. It is not! People should accept that to do a route you should have gained the relevant experience prior to attempting it, not try and reduce it to your level for your instant gratification by adding extra equipment to it.

Unnecessary and deplorable actions.


Baarb - Aug 9, 2009 7:33 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Route Comment

I guess using ropes and crampons should be out of the question too, people should just free solo everything right? Naked!


RoyD - Sep 14, 2009 3:47 pm - Voted 10/10

Super ridge

This is one very nice ridge, with the exposed arete blanc in combination with the solid rock ridge which in some parts can be rather exposed as well. Additionally the Zinalrothorn off course has a super location in between the Weisshorn with its Shaliridge and the Ober Gabelhorn with its North face, close to Dent Blanche. Superb!

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