North West Ridge

Page Type
Hohe Tauern - Glockner Gruppe, Austria, Europe
Route Type:
Glacier travel, rock climbing and some scree bashi
Time Required:
Half a day
Rock 5.2 / UIAA II

Route Quality: 2 Votes

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North West Ridge
Created On: Aug 9, 2005
Last Edited On: Aug 21, 2005


From the Oberwalderhütte cross the Südliches Bockkarkees (Glacier) towards the east, aiming at the Fuscherkarscharte (2841 m). From here you can start climbing the NW ridge, towards the final summit ridge.

Route Description

It is a basic climb that includes glacier travel (easy), some scree bashing and some easy rock climbing.

The route starts in the north side of the ridge and eventually climbs on the ridge itself. There are parts that can be either climbed directly on the ridge or by passed on the north and south side of it; the connection between the NW ridge and the SW ridge (another route goes on this ridge from the Gamsgrubeweg ) can be negotiated on the south side of the mountain. I recommended this when there is a lot of humidity, ice and unconsolidated snow (conditions when I climbed it.)

The final ridge is about 200 meters long and sharp. Go to the summit crucifix and enjoy the view of the Grossglockner.

Please be aware that the rock in the Fuscherkarkopf (or FKK, which also stands for “Freikörperkultur , that is, nudism or naturalism!) is very unconsolidated and weak, so be alert and keep safe.

Descent can be done either via the NW ridge, back to the hut, or the SW ridge, back to the Gamsgrubeweg ) and the Kaiser-Franz-Josefs-Höhe parking and tourist center.

Essential Gear

Glacier travel kit is mandatory. The glacier look fine and soft but I fell (or slide) once in a crevasse, so take care.

As the climb is very slippery, and the rock very shattering, you may want to have a rope for those team members who do not have a solid foot. Be careful when climbing this route when is wet.

Wind may be strong, so bring you jacket and minimal weather protection.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

North West Ridge

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