Northeast face

Page Type
Alberta, Canada, North America
Route Type:
Technical rock climb
Time Required:
Most of a day

Route Quality: 5 Votes

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Northeast face
Created On: Sep 9, 2004
Last Edited On: Sep 10, 2004


Head out of Canmore on the Smith-Dorrien/Spray Trail past the Grassi Lakes to the dam. Cross the dam and climb the fence. After you drop down on the other side you will find the trail head up to you left which lead gradually to the bottom of the east face. Traverese around this face on fairly solid scree to the base of the bowl that connects Miner peak and Ha Ling. From here your rock climb begins.

According to James Blench a superb guide who lives in Canmore. The route is named the Northeast face but is really a misnomer as it faces more south.

Route Description

This is a very pleasent rock climb with plenty of bolts at strategic places. The route slope up easily at first for the first 4-5 pitches. The most difficult climbing is in the middle 3-4 pitches the hardest pitch rated at 5.6. The last 3 of the approx 11 pitches is more moderate. This allows you to warm up on the easier parts and be ready for the more difficult stretch and then eases up at the end. Two of the middle pitches require the full length of a 55 metre rope. The balance of the pitches are shorter. See the photo for a rough route outline.

Essential Gear

Technical rock gear.
55 metre rope
Rock shoes
Assorted locking biners and quickdraws
5-6 slings
Assortment of Cams
Belay device
Cleaning tool

Miscellaneous Info

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