Ojstrica south ascent

Page Type
Kamnik Alps, Slovenia, Europe
Route Type:
Hiking, Mountaineering
Summer, Fall
Time Required:
Most of a day

Route Quality: 5 Votes

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Ojstrica south ascent
Created On: Jul 6, 2004
Last Edited On: Apr 20, 2018


OjstricaOjstrica from the south, from Velika Planina
The trailhead is in Kamniška Bistrica valley, 1 km before the big parking place at the mountain hut. We enter the Kamniška Bela valley where the main road crosses the creek, which has at this point a nice waterfall. The altitude is only 571 m.

Even more nice is the gorge of Kamniška Bistrica some 200 m towards north, where you can admire also a natural stone bridge. The place is called Predoselj.

Route Description

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A comfortable path leads into Kamniška Bela in the NE direction. Close to the point, where the path starts to climb steeper, we can also visit a nice waterfall, called Orglice (if the creek has enough water). Our path goes in many turns upwards, allways in the NE direction, until it reaches the Presedljaj (saddle), 1613 m. Till here 2.5 to 3 hours.

On the other side of the mountain ridge our path now goes more in a north direction. We move high above the valley of Lučka Bela, ascending only moderately, until we reach the Prag (saddle), 1910 m. From there we descend 100 m on a broad green Korošica plateau, where the hut stands.

From the Kocbek hut on Korošica meadow, 1808 m, we start ascending on a north, north-west direction, first through carst terrain, covered with pine bushes, later over grassy slopes. We allways keep left of the not very distinctive south ridge of Ojstrica (the ascent over the S ridge is an easy climb, UIAA I.-II.). Soon we approach a more steep terrain under the Ojstrica west ridge, the path smoothly bends right up and brings us over a few summit rocks to the summit.

From Korošica hut 1.5 hours, from Kamniška Bistrica valley (road) 5.5 hours.

We usually descend by the same route. The alternative is a non-marked descent over Šraj pesek (see below), which requires quite some orientation and easy climbing downwards. In recent years the path is washed away in a steep gully. There you might need a rope and belaying to get safely down.

This descent is not recommendable for hikers who have not experienced the ascent (difficult orientation in the upper part due to recent land slides /Sept 2007). Bolted rappel belays are now in place at the crux.

Descending Over Sraj Pesek

For experienced mountaineers a shorter, but harder descent over Šraj pesek can be recommended.

From Kocbek hut on Korosica meadow we go in south-west direction, over nice alpine meadows, called Petkove njive. We can follow a path, which is not marked (don't follow the marked path, which goes westwards to Kamniško sedlo!). Soon the direction becomes south, we allways go below the vertical western walls of Lučki Dedec, 2023 m, Vršiči, 1980 m and Vežica, 1965 m. These walls offer very nice rock climbs (also hard ones)! Below Vežica a long and fine scree (Šraj pesek) helps us to lose altitude quickly. It goes like skiing until the scree and the path ends. We can only hardly follow the trails, but our direction is allways directly down (southwards). When we reach a harder rocky step (cca 1100 m), we can either continue climbing down (I.-II. degree) by a steep ravine (in the middle of which there are also some iron pegs, not helping or protecting us much), or keep left through steep woods (difficult orientation), trying to reach the marked path. The more we lose altitude, the easier passages and finally we reach the bottom of Kamniska Bela valley. In the rocky gully nowadays the route is washed away and you might need a rope to descend down safely.

If everything goes fine, we can be down in Kamniska Bistrica valley in some 2.5 to 3 hours (the usual descent would take us at least 3 hours).

Essential Gear

Good shoes, perhaps sticks.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Ojstrica south ascent

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