Ortler / Ortles Climber's Log

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jdegroot - Sep 12, 2023 2:48 am Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2021

Normal weg  Sucess!

Fresh snow above 3400, climbing easy cause of fixed ropes. One III- part without fixed rope


ferdinandverboom - Feb 4, 2023 12:27 pm Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2022

Normal route  Sucess!

Very nice mixed route. Nice hut.


Scott - Jul 6, 2019 4:55 pm Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2019

Ortler  Sucess!

June 28

Andreas, Kessler, and I drove to the Ortler to start our climb. We decided the north ridge route since we weren't sure of the conditions and time commitments on the Hintergrat.

We hiked past the enormous north face (which had a monument on it dedicated to the climbers killed on the north face) and then hiked the trail to the Sayers Hut, which is set spectacularly right at the edge of a huge cliff. We then ate dinner and went to bed so we could get up early for the next day's climb.

June 29

We left early the next morning for the climb. It was more "exciting" than expected. There was a lot of rock climbing, which was tricky with boots and crampons and there was also a vertical ice traverse. There were also some really big crevasses to jump across. Still, the climb was enjoyable and we reached the summit without incident.

The descent didn't go as well for me. The mountaineering boots rubbed my feet raw and I was in a lot of pain during the descent. I had to move really slowly, perhaps to the annoyance of my climbing partners. The rock pitches were especially painful.

We reached the hut and ate lunch, but it was still a long and painful descent from there.


runout - Dec 29, 2018 1:12 pm Date Climbed: Nov 20, 2005

North face  Sucess!

Perfect conditions in November.


jck - Aug 30, 2016 7:34 am

Normal  Sucess!

Started at 4.30 a.m. from Tabaretta hutte, summited around noon. Tricky icy passages in the upper part of Barenloch. Generally quite nice.


Lodewijk - Aug 21, 2016 3:30 pm Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2016

Hintergrat  Sucess!

Climbed the Hintergrat together with Maarten and Veit. Until the first snowfield thick fog and no visibility. At the first snowfield, at Sunrise, the weather cleared, offering us fantastic views. We descended along the normal route back to Sulden.
A very fine tour & one of the best in the Eastern Alps.


JanG - Jul 28, 2016 7:43 pm Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2016

Very enjoyable Normal Route  Sucess!

Climbed Ortler with my son Christoph (and local guide David) on the day following a mid-summer snowstorm. We used crampons on the lower rocky parts but had excellent snow conditions on the upper glacier sections. Very cold & windy at the summit but the views were spectacular. A highly recommended climb with a very welcoming, family-run Payer hut situated on a rocky promontory!


alpinbeta - Sep 20, 2014 9:12 am Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2013

Normal Route from Rif. Payer  Sucess!

With good climbing conditions.

Silvia Mazzani

Silvia Mazzani - Dec 12, 2012 4:17 pm Date Climbed: Sep 12, 1982

North Ridge (normal)  Sucess!

Superb ascent from Rif. Payer.


pachamama - Oct 2, 2012 3:06 am Date Climbed: May 19, 2012

North Face  Sucess!

Good conditions. Good hard firn up to the "Gurgel" were we put on the rope. From there in good ice conditions we partly simul-climbed with four belay points on the way to rest and exchange gear. Start at Tabaretta Hut 4am, summit 10am back in Sulden 4pm.
Long and nervy descent via Payer Hut and Tabaretta Hut.


marc123 - Jul 30, 2012 6:30 am Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2006

Beautiful Hintergrat  Sucess!

Beautiful rock climb up the Hintergrat.


selinunte01 - Feb 26, 2012 1:20 pm Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2003

Hintergrat route  Sucess!

Great preparation for high Wallis mountains: Ortler Hintergrat with excellent weather; second time I summited Ortler (first time via "normal route up and down on September, 15. 1999)


Jurgen - Dec 17, 2010 5:49 am

Route Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: july 2004  Sucess!

I could imagine this would be a great route for its grade if there weren't hundred people on it everyday...

Dries Desmet

Dries Desmet - Jul 27, 2010 4:25 am Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2010

Hintergrat-Orter- Normal route  Sucess!

Very nice climb, we had very nice weather: a lot of sun and no clouds :-)).

Buthrakaur - Mar 26, 2010 4:56 pm Date Climbed: Sep 26, 2009

hintergrat  Sucess!

we had quite cloudy and snow weather, but the climb was very nice - I enjoyed it very much. We stayed at bivac and went down normal route second day - the weather totally changed overnight so we could enjoy the perfect view..


mvs - Jun 2, 2009 4:16 am Date Climbed: Jun 1, 2009

Route Climbed: North Face  Sucess!

Dan P. and I climbed the North Face in a long but rewarding day. We had whiteout conditions on the summit, unfortunately, and some excitement using map and compass to find our way north on the normal route.


Lubos - Mar 10, 2009 11:31 pm Date Climbed: Apr 25, 1985

Normal route

one of my first, just great alpinism.

Joerg Marretsch

Joerg Marretsch - Sep 29, 2008 3:22 pm Date Climbed: Sep 28, 2008

Hintergrat ridge - summit - Normal route  Sucess!

Just a perfect day at the end of summer 2008. Best conditions and not too many people.

Tomas Kristofory

Tomas Kristofory - Sep 28, 2008 6:28 pm Date Climbed: Sep 27, 2008

204th anniversary  Sucess!

We ascended Ortler via normal route with the base at Tabarettahuette with the club Euthanasia (www.euthanasia.cz). We ascended it on the same day, as was the 204th anniversary of the first ascend on Ortler. We had cloud inversion and saw brocken spectre of ours at Tschirfeck part. I just came, happy to be back alive. Snow made the ridge very tricky and a one guy in our group could have paid with his life for it. I'm too tired to write more or to post photos. You will have to wait some days/hours to see them.

hupfi - Aug 17, 2008 4:00 pm Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2008

Route Climbed: Normal route  Sucess!

Climbed the Ortler from Sulden with a nightstop at the payer hut in 2 days. nice weather and a beatiful trip with good friends.
more at http://www.martinhupfauf.com/wordpress/?p=763 (sorry, only in german) and more pictures at http://www.martinhupfauf.com/fotoalbum/2008/2008-08-02%20Hochtour%20Ortler/index.html

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