Fresh snow above 3400, climbing easy cause of fixed ropes. One III- part without fixed rope
Very nice mixed route. Nice hut.
Andreas, Kessler, and I drove to the Ortler to start our climb. We decided the north ridge route since we weren't sure of the conditions and time commitments on the Hintergrat.
We hiked past the enormous north face (which had a monument on it dedicated to the climbers killed on the north face) and then hiked the trail to the Sayers Hut, which is set spectacularly right at the edge of a huge cliff. We then ate dinner and went to bed so we could get up early for the next day's climb.
We left early the next morning for the climb. It was more "exciting" than expected. There was a lot of rock climbing, which was tricky with boots and crampons and there was also a vertical ice traverse. There were also some really big crevasses to jump across. Still, the climb was enjoyable and we reached the summit without incident.
The descent didn't go as well for me. The mountaineering boots rubbed my feet raw and I was in a lot of pain during the descent. I had to move really slowly, perhaps to the annoyance of my climbing partners. The rock pitches were especially painful.
We reached the hut and ate lunch, but it was still a long and painful descent from there.
Perfect conditions in November.
Started at 4.30 a.m. from Tabaretta hutte, summited around noon. Tricky icy passages in the upper part of Barenloch. Generally quite nice.
Climbed the Hintergrat together with Maarten and Veit. Until the first snowfield thick fog and no visibility. At the first snowfield, at Sunrise, the weather cleared, offering us fantastic views. We descended along the normal route back to Sulden.
A very fine tour & one of the best in the Eastern Alps.
Climbed Ortler with my son Christoph (and local guide David) on the day following a mid-summer snowstorm. We used crampons on the lower rocky parts but had excellent snow conditions on the upper glacier sections. Very cold & windy at the summit but the views were spectacular. A highly recommended climb with a very welcoming, family-run Payer hut situated on a rocky promontory!
With good climbing conditions.
Superb ascent from Rif. Payer.
Good conditions. Good hard firn up to the "Gurgel" were we put on the rope. From there in good ice conditions we partly simul-climbed with four belay points on the way to rest and exchange gear. Start at Tabaretta Hut 4am, summit 10am back in Sulden 4pm.
Long and nervy descent via Payer Hut and Tabaretta Hut.
Beautiful rock climb up the Hintergrat.
Great preparation for high Wallis mountains: Ortler Hintergrat with excellent weather; second time I summited Ortler (first time via "normal route up and down on September, 15. 1999)
I could imagine this would be a great route for its grade if there weren't hundred people on it everyday...
Very nice climb, we had very nice weather: a lot of sun and no clouds :-)).
we had quite cloudy and snow weather, but the climb was very nice - I enjoyed it very much. We stayed at bivac and went down normal route second day - the weather totally changed overnight so we could enjoy the perfect view..
Dan P. and I climbed the North Face in a long but rewarding day. We had whiteout conditions on the summit, unfortunately, and some excitement using map and compass to find our way north on the normal route.
one of my first, just great alpinism.
Just a perfect day at the end of summer 2008. Best conditions and not too many people.
We ascended Ortler via normal route with the base at Tabarettahuette with the club Euthanasia (www.euthanasia.cz). We ascended it on the same day, as was the 204th anniversary of the first ascend on Ortler. We had cloud inversion and saw brocken spectre of ours at Tschirfeck part. I just came, happy to be back alive. Snow made the ridge very tricky and a one guy in our group could have paid with his life for it. I'm too tired to write more or to post photos. You will have to wait some days/hours to see them.
Climbed the Ortler from Sulden with a nightstop at the payer hut in 2 days. nice weather and a beatiful trip with good friends.
more at http://www.martinhupfauf.com/wordpress/?p=763 (sorry, only in german) and more pictures at http://www.martinhupfauf.com/fotoalbum/2008/2008-08-02%20Hochtour%20Ortler/index.html