P. Giordani SW-flank and P.V. SE-ridge

P. Giordani SW-flank and P.V. SE-ridge

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 45.90700°N / 7.86310°E
Additional Information Route Type: glacier and scramble
Additional Information Time Required: Half a day
Additional Information Difficulty: UIAA III
Sign the Climber's Log


starting point is Gnifetti hut (3611 m). Approach to there see main page

Punta Giordani SW-flank

From Gnifetti hut you have to cross Garstelet glacier even to gain the SW ridge of Vincent Pyramid.
morning on SW ridge of...morning on SW ridge of Piramid Vincent

This ridge is blocky and easy and it has to be climbed up to a height of 3800 m. There you have to traverse down to the right following some footprints to Indren glacier. This is not difficult but rocks are loose so be careful and try to avoid rockfall.
On Indren glacier that is the...On Indren glacier

Indren glacier has to be climbed in zig-zags to the upper right. The little rock there – yes this is Punta Giordani. Similar to Balmenhorn I cannot call this an independent mountain.
Punta Giordani as seen from...Punta Giordani
on the ridge after Punta...Punta Giordani

The few meters of rock are exposed but not difficult.
Punta Giordani is a fine...looking at Lago Maggiore

Cresta di soldato route on SE ridge of Punta Giordani is the other possibility to climb this "mountain".

Piramid Vincent SE-ridge

 Piramide Vincent SE-ridge as...Piramide Vincent SW ridge
For the traverse to Vincent pyramid you have to traverse the even snow ridge until rocks become steep.
There is a big block on the ridge. We traversed beneath this block on the right and climbed it on the edge. Then there is a short snow section again before the ridge becomes steep again. It has to be climbed near or left or the edge and ends at the snow cap of the summit.

mountain conditions

I did this in hot summer 2003. If you go there in earlier summer in normal years, there will be more snow.
andrea.it describes the SE-ridge of Piramide Vincent on his route page as of 1997 as a snow ridge
July to September is the normal season for this route


Crampons, ice axe, 50 m single rope, some slings


Difficulty of the rocks of SE-ridge to Piramid Vincent is up to UIAA III
According to the system of the guidebook by Waeber I would rate it with G4-5 on the "Munter-scale". UIAA II and G3 as written in this book is a too easy rating!



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