PEÑA del AGUILA, El sueño del Navegante

Page Type
Route
Location:
Avila, Spain, Europe
Route Type:
Aid Climbing
Time Required:
A long day
Difficulty:
ED (120m, A3+)

Route Quality: 2 Votes

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PEÑA del AGUILA, El sueño del Navegante
Created On: Aug 29, 2004
Last Edited On: Jan 15, 2005

The severe southeast face of ´Peña del Aguila´.



First Ascent


Sometime during the 80´s SOLO by the well known climber from Madrid known as "Pérez" ( full name: José Fernández Pérez).

Approach


From Nogal del Barranco follow the well traced path going up the valley. Just after the second drinking spring we leave the trail to turn eastward to reach the canal of Peña del Aguila. Getting to the start of the route will demand about 100 metres of difficult rock-scrambling.

The Route



Route Description


This Aid route is resolved in three pitches graded as A3, A3 & A3+. But we consider they go as A2, A2+ & A3+. All belays have two bolts.
  • First pitch has a few bolts, if carrying many microfriends and nuts there is not really need of hammering. (1-2 hours)
  • Second pitch is long and uses many nuts. (2-4 hours)
  • Third pitch, the beggining of this pitch is the most difficult part of the route, rurps, bird beaks, rp´s, coppers, microfriends, ... Just when the world begins to be small and small, gear starts to fit better and better. (4-6 hours)

Descent


It is possible to rapel down with 2 sixty metres ropes, but it is more advisable to scramble down carefully from the summit to the col in the "Espaldar" and from there with one sixty metres rope reach the "Canal", then, again scrambilng carefully will be reaching the foot of the face.

Essential Gear


In this route you will need all shorts of gear used in difficult aid routes in granit. 3bird beaks, some rp´s, 3 sets of small-medium nuts, 2 sets of micronuts, 1 set of friends, hamer, aiders, 6 blades (different sizes), 6 V´s (different sizes) y lots of binners and slings & whatever else you may consider.

IMPORTANT


  • There is no water around, make sure you carry enough water.
  • There is an splendid vivac on the foot of the face
  • Avoid the hot summer days
  • Info: Magazine ´Desnivel 203´

Information



All info gathered by:
Jonás Cruces
Mountain Guide & Rock + Ice Climbing Instructor

This is his website: www.todovertical.com