Pembroke delights

Pembroke delights

Page Type Page Type: Album
Additional Information Image Type(s): Rock Climbing

The Venue

Pembroke occupies the most south westerly tip of Wales. Much of the area is designated as a National Park, the boundary of which covers all the coastline and excludes the more developed agricultural land and towns. Oddly, in the south, several large chunks have limited access as they are controled by the military and are used as Tank training areas.

Range East is open for public use when firing is not taking place, whilst Range west is only open at limited times and then to those that have undertaken an annual safety briefing.

The climbing areas are roughly divided into two areas; North and South, which comprise of around 12 seperate areas further divided into scores of individual crags.

There are 2 main guide books for the area, the definitive guide puiblished by The Climbers' Club and a topo style guide of selected routes published by Rockfax.

These pictures are taken over two days and are all from Range East, which is in south Pembroke.

Sea Mist, Saddle Head.

Rising out of  Sea MistAlys Rook nears the top of the route

Sea MistNigel Lewis just past the traverse at the begining of the route. Stepping from the main wave cut platform onto the wall is probably the hardest move on the route.

Saddle Head is split into four smaller areas, with Sea Mist being one of the best routes on The Upper Tier.

Sea Mist is a 90' Hard Severe 4a. It is best climbed when the waves are crashing just below your feet. On more placid days a seal may pop up and watch you climb.

Saddle HeadThe route moves onto the arete and main wall until reaching a headwall, then to the top.

Finishing Sea Mist

Maelstrom Chimney, Stennis Head.

Stennis Head is the headland immediately to the east of Saddle Head. The climbs are split into 2 areas by a sea flooded fissure on the point of the headland.

Maelstrom chimney is approached by dropping down a grassy rake on the east side of the headland, then traversing above the waves for 130' The second pitch then takes you 70' back to the headland above.
Starting the routeNigel lewis and Lowri Roberts. As we were only doing the second pitch, we 'abbed' in to a ledge above the sea, then climbed the wall and chimney above.

On the route

Maelstrom Chimneyarriving at the chimney. Great atmosphere on easily protected solid rock

Bridging the chimney

Topping OutReaching for the top


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