Patrick Gabarrou and Feran Latore, 24-25/03/1994
Original grade: IV/6 UIAA VI A2/A3
Second ascent: Philippe Batoux and Benoit Peyronnard, 9-10/12/2004
Third ascent, and probably first free ascent: Nick Bullock and Stuart Mac Aleese, 4-5/01/2005
(?) ascente: Ildi e Manu Pellissier, 26/12/2006
Our ascent 5th
(?): Giampaolo Betta and Matteo Faganello, 27/12/2006
Free and one-day ascent
Getting ThereFrom France - Chamonix-Montenvers - (Refuge de Leschaux)
Follow the Mer de Glace (same as for Rif. du Requin) until it turns to right.
Now you have to cross it (red marks) until the lateral moraine to get the Glacier de Leschaux.
Cross the medial moraine and follow directly on the glacier.
Now you can see the North-West face of Petit Jorasses.
Before the glacier becomes steeper you can see the Refuge de Leschaux on the left.
You can reach the base of the face in 5 hours from Montenvers.
Route DescriptionPitch 1
The "rimaye" is followed by a 80° corner of neve and ice. During our ascent the rimaye was very opened and the first ten meters of the corner were dry. (60m)
A very nice and steep (85°) pitch of neve and ice in an opened wall leading to the suspended glacier. (60m)
the first wall: two pitches
Follow the snowfield (40°). A steeper step leads to the gully (70°). Then follow the snowgully till its top. (250m)
A very nice gully (75°),
an overhanging V-grove (90°),
and finally a thinly iced slab (80°). (60m)
A short step (70°) above the belay leads to the second snowfield (40°). Follow it till its top. (60m)
A nice chimney-gully (75°)with thin ice on the right side. (60m)
An amusing gully (75°) and an overhanging difficult step (95°). (60m)
first gully of 10th pitch
Another chimney-gully (75°)
and a thinly iced slab (80°) on the right,
followed by an easy overhanging stone. (35m)
An amusing iced corner (80°) and then a difficult thinly iced or dry slab (85°). (35m)
A short gully (75°) with an easy dry step leads to the last snowfield. Follow it (40°) until the col between the nord pillar and the nord-west wall of Petites Jorasses. 60m
A short dry step in the 13th pitch
Follow the mixed "couloir en plein nord" (65°) as described by Damilano. A thinly iced or dry step leads to the belay. (60m)
14th pitch above the summit of Nord Pillar
A thinly iced slab (65°), a snowfield and a last dry step (75°) lead to the summit ridge, 15 meters far from the summit of Petites Jorasses. (50m)
Lescaux glacier seen from the summit
Actually all anchors (except for one abalakov) are well equipped in the rock.
Friends Camelot: 0,5 - 0,75 - 1
Excentrics Camp: 9 - 10
Stopper Serie DMM
5 short and medium screws
Several pegs, but we didn't use any peg