Aconcagua - Jan 2007

Regional discussion and conditions reports for South America. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the South American Climbing Partners section.
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IamLubos

 
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maybe

by IamLubos » Fri Jul 07, 2006 3:57 am

guys, I think I would be willing to give Aconcagua a shot this coming winter. Are you still looking for partners? I would rather prefer a smaller group, sorry Brad :)

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Peak Freak

 
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by Peak Freak » Fri Jul 07, 2006 6:16 am

Lubos,

I'm looking for a smaller group too. I have limited access to e-mail over the next few days, but I'll shoot you a PM early next week.

EB

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Brad Marshall

 
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by Brad Marshall » Fri Jul 07, 2006 1:16 pm

No prob IamLubos. My expedition is full (12 climbers) so I hope you and EB can hook up together. We'll be there in late Dec - early Jan so just look for the tent with the big Canadian flag.

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cp0915

 
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*

by cp0915 » Sat Jul 08, 2006 8:32 pm

IamLubos, Peak Freak -

We'll be down there Jan 1-21. We'll have 5 or 6 in our party. You guys are certainly welcome to join us. The more, the merrier.

CP

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Azra

 
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by Azra » Sun Jul 30, 2006 9:36 am

Hi !
I'm planning to climb Aconcagua starting the last week in December...

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Brad Marshall

 
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by Brad Marshall » Sun Jul 30, 2006 5:27 pm

Hi Azra, what route are you planning to take?

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Azra

 
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by Azra » Sun Jul 30, 2006 8:17 pm

Hi Brad !
I'm planning to take Normal route. I'm plan to be in Mendoza Dec 25-26. with a group from Croatia.

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Brad Marshall

 
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by Brad Marshall » Sun Jul 30, 2006 8:22 pm

We'll be on the other side with some trying the Polish Direct and and others the Traverse. We'll be in Mendoza Dec 22-25. Good luck on your climb.

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ReverseClimber

 
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by ReverseClimber » Thu Aug 31, 2006 7:05 pm

I'll be crawling up aconcagua from Jan 16 - 25 Normal Route (I am aclimatizing elsewhere). I cant believe the numbre of people this year that are going, it's going to be brtual! Heck there are 14 + me in my group... well in reality around 20 - 21 with guides ect. If you wanna know who i am on the mountain, i'll be the moron with the giant smiley face on the ass of his downsuit (I hate getting cold, and after last year i wanna climb with little to nothing in my backpack). Just because i'm taking this bloody suit with me... its going to be crazy warm t-shirt weather.... :roll:

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Brad Marshall

 
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by Brad Marshall » Thu Aug 31, 2006 7:13 pm

Wow, if the weather was as warm as last year I was planning to climb to Camp 1 in my running shoes. Last year I met Lapka Rita Sherpa coming down from Camp 2 in his Adidas and probably 100 lbs in his pack!!!

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ReverseClimber

 
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by ReverseClimber » Fri Sep 01, 2006 12:32 am

i'd definately go in sneakers, but the problem is that we dont stock camps ext. Its just one giant push to the top in 4 days (up to canada, nido, berlin, summit) or 3 days if we skip nido. which leaves me wearing my giant moon boots. The best part about last year down there in jan. was that there was litterally no wind at all for the entire time i was on the mountain, it just liked to snow off and on. Now its time to pay for my lovely flight.... on american airlines.. :x anyone wish to put bets on how much of my gear makes it to santiago?! But for $1300 for the flight compared with $1850 for air canada going through toronto... its to big of a difference.

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Ario

 
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by Ario » Fri Sep 01, 2006 3:36 am

R Climber,
from what you describe of the weather, sounds like we were on the normal route at the same time ! Which group were you with, Berg Adventures or something ? Didn't meet a guy from Montreal up there alone 8)

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ReverseClimber

 
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by ReverseClimber » Fri Sep 01, 2006 4:27 am

yea, i was with Berg Adventures. Sorry but I cant honestly remember meeting you.... :( but if you remember the group i was the young one, way younger than the other two in the group. I'm down there with them again this year to finish off what i started last year. Needless to say i had to turn around on aconcagua just below Berlin, at least i've got an excuse no one can beat.

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Ario

 
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by Ario » Fri Sep 01, 2006 6:12 am

Man, indeed altitude affects memory :lol:
The Basque Joseba and me were on our "hauling" operation to Nido when we met you guys passing Campo Alaska. Talked with the Bolivian guides and Leila (?, hum... my memory now...) she said her company was from Alberta and I surprised her recognizing the Berg Ojos - Aconcagua expedition. @ Nido you pitched your tents close to mien (yellow and black). I spent some time socializing with you guys, specially with Wally, talking about his expeditions as I had received their brochures...
:?: Tell me something the guide who was with you back to P. de Mulas didn't start there in the night to catch the rest of the team early in the morning at Berlin and summit with them the same day (Mulas - Summit direct) ?! Those bolivianos were so impressive :o

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Damien Gildea

 
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by Damien Gildea » Fri Sep 01, 2006 12:21 pm

Reverse,

If you really are acclimatised from being somewhere else, then you should look at just going Mulas - Nido - Summit - Mulas.

I went in unacclimatised end of Jan 06, 2 nights at Confluencia, spent a few days at Mulas, carried to Nido, rested another 2 days Mulas, moved to Nido, spent 4 days resting, eating, drinking at Nido, then went to the summit in 8hrs, leaving at 10pm, summit just before 6am. No one else on the route, all to myself.

On the way down I saw people struggling up from Berlin. They were already tired from carrying gear up to there and now the next day, or day after, were going to the summit. They looked miserable and many didn't make it. The normal route is so easy you can move really fast on it, an ideal route for this approach.

D

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