Is the book really worth it? How practical is the training plan? While I respect Steve House completely, I'm not sure the best athlete translates into the best trainer. Based on Larson's review, it looks like an endurance training book with climbing focus.

Isn't it just asking you do a lot of low intensity (zone 1), and the rest for strength training and zone 3-4? I'm curious as to how adaptable that is for average working professional. This is pretty much what all endurance sports trainers ask you to do.

Although it contains a lot of modern endurance training theory, which is probably written by Steve's trainer, that you may already know, the book contains a lot more than that.

I am nearly finished reading it the first time, and will go back and carefully read and study it a second time, if not a third time.

I come from an ultra endurance sport background (ultrarunning, ultracycling, etc), may know a thing or two about training, nutrition, etc., and believe the book is definitely worth buying and studying very closely. Besides, it is a great read on it's own.

BTW: if you are a cyclist and interested in a good book on high intensity training on a time budget, I recommend Chris Carmichael's "The Time Crunched Cyclist."

I have read it once, and as above,will be rereading it a few times. What I like...

1. It's written not just for Steve and people operating at his level. There is a lot of information and ideas for "weekend warriors" and people that live a little ways from the mountains.

2. It's not really written by Steve. Scott has a huge input, and he's highly experienced not only as a climber but as a trainer.

3. There is a lot of references to peer reviewed work. It's not a collection of anecdotes, but is founded in solid research.

4. The writing is clear and even entertaining in parts. Some nice fill-in info from Steve and other alpinists.

One interesting point had to do with Crossfit. There was a very "politically correct" section about Crossfit and how it can be very effective for some circumstances but in itself fails for athletes requiring high levels of endurance. It also dispels all that current crap of how you can be fit on a "7min per week" or similar BS program.

I pre-ordered on amazon and when it showed up I knew I had a gem. The book itself is beautiful, great photos, and printed on heavy paper. I think just carrying this thing around is helping my fitness:) As some of the other commenters have stated, it is at its core a book about endurance, and is pretty clear about the idea that there is no free lunch when it comes to gaining deep endurance. Either you spend the time to do it right, or accept lesser results. I, for one, am not an elite athlete/climber/mountaineer, but what I like about the approach presented here is the adaptability for my starting level of fitness and the regimented schedule to keep progress happening. Having a schedule with clear objectives and a way to measure progress is more than worth the price I paid.

Jesus Malverde wrote:Ebook link:
http://www.mytabletbooks.com/BookDetails.aspx?prdid=222

Quick update:
Looks like Training for the New Alpinism is now available in Kindle format at a slightly lower price than the previous mentioned Ebook link.
http://www.amazon.com/Training-New-Alpi ... 193834023X
2 cents/FWIW: Finally found time to do a first time read and it's hard to put down. I think I will need to read it again (and possibly again); definitely a reference book moving forward: very good stuff.
El que se cansa, pierde,
JM

It's the best book on endurance training that I've read. Much of the material is well known, but is covered from a current perspective, is well-written, and reminds me of what I should be doing. And some of the material was new to me -- such as the "Russian rest" for acclimatization.

They're not cross-fit fans -- they quote Twight: "No top-performing endurance athletes achieve their results on a diet of short, hard intervals and circuit training in the gym. Instead they build hours and hours of baseline fitness and then temper the foundation in races, and with a very small percentage of high-intensity interval training."

It has high production values -- heavy stock, visually appealing, easy to read, laid out with plenty of side-bars and essays from other climbers and endurance athletes, and loaded with mountaineering photos that are coffee-table gorgeous.

My focus this summer was on remote Sierra peaks such as Tunemah and Picket Guard -- my training plan was based, or at least refreshed, from the ideas in the book. It's been working for me.

Great read. Many entries to some facts that just needed to be put the right way.

Doesn't mention you shouldn't smoke though LOL

I own the book, and I find it a very good book. Why? well because it's written in a such way to help you understand how's and why's of training for alpinism. Which in the end will make you create your own training plan to fit your needs and ambitions.

Yes, it does supply you with an example of training plan and workout routines, but that's not the point of the book. The point is to make you create your own. You can modify every exercise in a way you like and/or can perform.
For example someone in this thread mentioned treadmill handcrawls. Great exercise, but I do it by putting my feet on a piece of slippery cloth and dragging my feet across the hardwood floor. I also put greater emphasis on training my technical ability in climbing (which is my weakest link) than pure strenght and endurance.

The book also puts great emphasis on how to rest properly and points out how good rest after a workout is what makes you stronger, not the workout itself. Something most sport coaches can't understand in this day and age.