Beautiful SHASTA Current Conditions

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Re: Beautiful SHASTA Current Conditions

by powderjunkie » Thu Sep 21, 2017 8:13 pm

very cool looking route mrchad. thx for posting

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mrchad9

 
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Re: Beautiful SHASTA Current Conditions

by mrchad9 » Wed Oct 18, 2017 12:18 am

Some nice views of Hidden Valley and Whitney Glacier last weekend...

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Hidden Valley
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Whitney Glacier
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Shastina
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Shasta from Shastina Summit
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clmbr

 
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Re: Beautiful SHASTA Current Conditions

by clmbr » Thu Oct 19, 2017 4:08 pm

Nice. Any other pictures of the glacier? The Whitney Glacier looks so thin.

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mrchad9

 
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Re: Beautiful SHASTA Current Conditions

by mrchad9 » Thu Oct 19, 2017 6:50 pm

Here is a couple more pictures.

I also dug up some of Watkins Glacier... which we discussed earlier. It's a real one!

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Whitney1
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Whitney2
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Watkins from Camp
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Lower Watkins
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Watkins
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Watkins2
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clmbr

 
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Re: Beautiful SHASTA Current Conditions

by clmbr » Tue Oct 31, 2017 5:18 pm

Just a quick Clear Creek route conditions update based on October 28-30, 2017:

As of the last weekend (and till the next snowfall) NO Ice axe or Crampons were needed to summit Mt Shasta via Clear Creek. There are new snow patches after the previous storm but melted out enough to easy navigate. The only snow one has to really step on is on the summit (be careful there).

If you are not familiar with the route (and even if), you may (will) lose the trail due to snow patches and other factors on the upper half of the mountain. So look around to find it back or suffer more.

DO NOT cross any snow field without the ice axe and crampons. The snow becomes hard-ice overnight and it still may be very hard during most of the day.

If you want to glissade down some sections, then obviously bring an ice axe and know self-arrest, of course.

On Saturday's sttempt I brought my ice axe and crampons just in case but also for the glissading option; did not glissade, did not use them. On Monday's attempt did not take any.Those who I met on the mountain over the last weekend complained they were advised to rent this gear and spent money unnecessarily.

NO Summit Passes, NO Wilderness Permits, NO Toilette paper in the restroom at the TH. There were, however, human waste bags. Dispose that used bags in a different container please; there are all signed/marked properly. If, perhaps, you cannot read English, use just a common sense.

And, please, do some research before attempting any route to avoid disappointments. SummitPost.org may be a good start. Claiming the Clear Creek route is the easiest on Mt Shasta is simply an invalid statement fooling many inexperienced endeavors. There is nothing easy or easiest on Mt Shasta. Each route technicalities (and so called easiness) change based on many factors over the year.

Why would I know that? Besides a common sense, I’ve been on this mountain 100+n+1 times (1=any new attempt).

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mrchad9

 
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Re: Beautiful SHASTA Current Conditions

by mrchad9 » Tue Oct 31, 2017 5:26 pm

One route has to be the easiest... and having done them all I can assure you that Clear Creek is in fact the easiest.

If you think differently then which would you say is easiest?

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Re: Beautiful SHASTA Current Conditions

by mrchad9 » Tue Oct 31, 2017 6:04 pm

Conditions are very icy on Wintun Glacier right now... especially just below the bergschrund. Lucky for us there was a chute that was an easy climb up once you got down into it... otherwise would have been a problematic journey around one end of it and onto some steep rock. Currently not the easiest route!

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Lower Crevasse
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Another shot of lower crevasse
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Crossing bergschrund
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Chute in bergschrund
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Looking down chute
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Climbing out
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clmbr

 
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Re: Beautiful SHASTA Current Conditions

by clmbr » Tue Oct 31, 2017 7:01 pm

mrchad9 wrote:Conditions are very icy on Wintun Glacier right now... especially just below the bergschrund. Lucky for us there was a chute that was an easy climb up once you got down into it... otherwise would have been a problematic journey around one end of it and onto some steep rock. Currently not the easiest route!

If I knew you were that day I would have waited for you on the summit. :D Why you always climb on the same weekend as I do? :o :)
Nice pics. Your team gets bigger.

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clmbr

 
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Re: Beautiful SHASTA Current Conditions

by clmbr » Sun Dec 31, 2017 6:57 pm

Here is a short video of my friends (including Ian) summiting Mt Shasta on December 10th, 2017. The conditions were great. Apparently no one has signed the register after last Chad’s and mine summits a month before, perhaps because the box was buried in snow?

Video: Mt Shasta Winter Attempt December 2017
https://www.facebook.com/Mountaineering ... 702466022/

According to the current from Dec 31st, 2017 snowcam picture (the image content changes every 10 min) the snow from ridges disappears leaving the rock exposed. That’s not good news.
http://www.snowcrest.net/camera/highres.php

However, the current avalanche hazard is supposed to be still Low and the weather forecast quite good giving a chance on a reasonably "easy" winter summit to those who crave for the winter attempt.

Happy New Year and Climb Safe!

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Re: Beautiful SHASTA Current Conditions

by mrchad9 » Fri Jan 19, 2018 7:26 pm

Perfect conditions on Casaval Ridge last weekend! Snowing all this week too!

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deungsan

 
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Shasta conditions

by deungsan » Mon Apr 23, 2018 1:48 am

I’m getting the Shasta itch and was wondering if anyone has done Casaval Ridge recently. Thanks.

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mrchad9

 
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Re: Beautiful SHASTA Current Conditions

by mrchad9 » Mon Apr 23, 2018 6:28 pm

Not since January... based on recent weather and the pics on shastaavalanche it looks awesome... maybe some falling rime ice up high.

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