Thoughts of summer creeping in. For those of you who've been there, how does Bonanza Peak compare to say, Fisher Chimneys route on Shuksan (I've also done my share on the Oregon chosspiles and Olympics)? The Beckey book makes it sound extremely loose, but I've read several trip reports that didn't seem that bad. Mostly curious about the rock, it sounds like the Mary Green Glacier can be fairly broken up later in seaon so hoping to go in July, also so as to be able to get across the bergshrund. Also, similar question for Goode, SW chute.

Bonanza is Awesome!
As for loose rock, It is not bad if you are not dragging ropes through it . The only issues are the snow-to-rock transitionS that you will face. It is not a difficulty issue. People have been shut down with deep snow and route-finding on it though. It is a weird peak but it offers several amazing summits. Here is a tr I did on the NE Ridge
http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/809646#Post809646[/url]

Thanks Tazz and Wayne for the TRs! More mixed experiences. Guess I'll have to check it out for myself. Just doesn't seem like one a lot of people are hot to repeat though

Snowslogger wrote:Thanks Tazz and Wayne for the TRs! More mixed experiences. Guess I'll have to check it out for myself. Just doesn't seem like one a lot of people are hot to repeat though

I did B-za 2 times and I would do it again. It is a mountains- mountain

Bonanza is great if you don't pull a rope out for it, I did it a few years ago with a nonclimber in our group, so we roped up for the final rock gully. on the way down we did running belays, at one point the rope caught a flake and pulled it down, narrowly missing me as I pressed flat under and imaginary overhang. hit next to me, core shot in brand spankin new 50 M half rope! now it's the perfect length for glacier travel (~40 M). be comfortable on exposed 4th class, with a fair amount of rubble on any ledges.

the climb itself is great, the final ridge is classic, perfectly flat sidewalk with 2000 feet of air on either side, with only a couple precariously perched death blocks, incredible views of Glacier and lake chelan peaks. highly recommended.

the mosquitoes are horrendous though, bring lots of deet and a headnet, and camp at the saddle. early july is a good time to go, that's when I did it.

Here's our TR for Goode from last summer:

http://www.peakbagger.com/climber/ascent.aspx?aid=75193

wingman wrote:Here's our TR for Goode from last summer:

http://www.peakbagger.com/climber/ascent.aspx?aid=75193

Nice trip report! Any peak that has a ferry in the approach is kinda cool