Regional discussion and conditions reports for Washington and Oregon. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Pacific Northwest Climbing Partners section.
My climbing partners and I have successfully climbed Rainier (Disappointment Cleaver route) a couple times and are looking for the next challenge for Summer 2016. We are all novices without any experience beyond Rainier, some much smaller climbs, and the local indoor climbing gym. Is the class of rock on Forbidden Peak West Ridge a good next step/progression for us? We've been doing some research, and it appears manageable. But, we would like to get opinions from others who have done it. If we do it, we will be using a guide service. Thanks in advance for any insight/advice.
Do you have experience scrambling? Have you done any multi pitch climbs? I suggest doing some cragging followed by some easy rock climbs in the alpine. Mount Shuksan is a great beginner peak (for those who already have glacier experience). Some others are Sloan Peak (scramble/glacier travel), Dorado Needle (glacier and rock), North Ingalls (5.4), and the East Ridge of Mesahchie Peak. Leavenworth, Index, or Mount Erie are great places to crag. Index tends to be on the harder end of their ratings.
Forbidden Peak's West Ridge is generally accepted as 5.4 (some argue 5.6 although I think this is an exaggeration). It is one of my favorite mountains of all times and is ranked as an American Classic. Do you feel comfortable with a lot of exposure while rock climbing? It's quite exposed, but with delightful rock. The only rock that I am not found of on this mountain is below the West Ridge in the bypass gully system at the top section. Someone died in 2012 from a rock that came down from that area. Note that rangers seem to often pull down rappel slings, hence making it a good idea for you to bring your own. In 2012 I was able to rap all the way down with only having to place 1 or 2 slings. In 2013 I had to down climb a lot of 5th class unroped due to the slings being removed from the West Ridge. I was quite annoyed as you could imagine.
The West Ridge of Forbidden is a truly alpine climb, one that requires steep snow climbing as well as steep rock climbing. You should be proficient in multi-pitch traditional rock climbing, but if you go with a guide the grade should be very doable for you.