If you have to ask that question and it sounds like you are in doubt-don't climb solo. It's for some and it isn't for some. Myself I do enjoy solo climbing once in awhile-great way to clear the head.

All done. A great experience for sure, not something I want to do every weekend, but a great experience no matter. There were a few times during the climb I had some bad thoughts come into my mind but took those thoughts as motivation to keep focusing. The top of the glacier is melted out, a bit sad. Moving over the rock and dirt was not fun.

There was another guy climbing solo above and to the left of me, we seem to have a good understanding of each other. We did a good job of staying out of each other’s way and I saw very little in the way of rock or ice fall. However, if you climb Dana be careful of the climbers above you. I felt like no matter how hard I tried I knocked down tons of ice and rock at the top.

A few more thoughts, I started out over focused on my ice axe placements and not on my feet. I believe because I was a bit nervous at the start, surely a first timer’s mistake. After I realized what I was doing and changed my focus I saved a ton of energy.

Have you ever seen Jeff Lowe’s Alpine Ice video? He does this very intense solo ice climb at the end and talks in the most relaxed manner. He speaks a bit like this, “It was a pleasant day out and I found the solitude of solo climbing on this unclimbed route quite enjoyable and relaxing.” I found myself thinking about this narrative on and off through out the climb and can’t quite understand how he stays so relaxed. Does anyone know what I mean?

Great suggestions by everyone. But let me add one more item. The difficult part of search and rescue often isn't the rescue, but the search. Make it easy on the SAR folks by making a plan and sticking to it. Part of that plan is letting people know where you're going to park your car. Park there and make sure you're car is visible, from both the ground and the air. When the SAR gets called out, the first thing their going to look for is the car to let them know they're on the right track. If it's parked two canyons over under some trees, it may be days (or years!) before it's found.

Oh yeah, carry a cell phone too. It may not work, but it raises the odds in your favor.

Good job Rossi ! Post some conditions pics if you get a chance

It's kinda funny to hear people draw comparisons to 5.x climbing. The route we are talking about looks something like this -



It's no more than 40 degrees max. The above pic is from late September of a much bigger snow year of course. I imagine the ice is pretty plastic (and wet) by midday this time of year.

edl wrote: ...Park there and make sure you're car is visible, from both the ground and the air... ...Oh yeah, carry a cell phone too. It may not work, but it raises the odds in your favor.

You are cracking me up! That is one of trhe best laughs I've had in years.

Forget about the car parking part, if you really, seriously can't cut the umbilical cord then get or rent a sat phone. Don't kid yourself with a cell. If you need it to work get the right tool.

rhyang wrote:Good job Rossi ! Post some conditions pics if you get a chance

It's kinda funny to hear people draw comparisons to 5.x climbing. The route we are talking about looks something like this -

It's no more than 40 degrees max. The above pic is from late September of a much bigger snow year of course. I imagine the ice is pretty plastic (and wet) by midday this time of year.

This is what it looks like now. See the photos at the bottom of this thread.

http://www.summitpost.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=38867

Thanks for answering my question.

-The sane way to solo something, I suppose, is to solo something you've climbed before.
-Don't push it too fast. For instance, if after some practice you feel you're now okay to solo 5.2, don't jump straight to 5.6.
-It is much better to climb with someone, because then they can point the search and rescue to where your corpse is lying.
-DO NOT attempt any goals that are not well within your comfort zone and current climbing ability range for your first solo gig! Plan for a challenge that will lead you and end in a successful trip. This may entail something at least two grades below your current abilities.
-Leave a full itinerary with a topo map of your trip with someone close and then DO NOT deviate from it.
-Readdress your thought process to think positive things about the climb prior to your departure.
-On the approach and during the climb, focus on the task at hand and filter out any "noise" that is not condusive to your success. Remain confident, but, if during your climb, that sixth sense kicks in and tells you to back off because something just doesn't feel right... DO SO without any guilt!
-Have fun and stay alive... the rock/ice ain't going anywhere and you can always return another day to climb again!
-When soloing unroped, you should be sure to be able to reverse every move you make.
-brought a light harness, some slings and a couple of screws in case I got tired and wanted to rest.
-Get an early start so you are not behind other parties - a chunk of ice could ruin your day.
-Rockfall is also a concern - steer clear of the sides of the couloir, especially if they appear dirty.
-Look at the sky carefully before starting up. If it looks like it will rain while you are on it, I'd go do something else.
-Make sure your health and/or life insurance is paid up
-Don't climb under or past and over other parties (both sins I have committed). You get bombed or you do the bombing on folks who were ostensibly there first, not cool.
- Be positive & confident
-Don't let useless internal dialogue f$%# with your head (on the approach or while on it)
-Don't let your ego determine what you do
-Wear a helmet
-Bring a harness, some slings, & some screws for security
-Don't slip
-Also, have your French technique (i.e. flat-footing) down, so you can conserve as much energy as possible.
-It is ok to feel nervous about it now and before the climb - that will allow you to not underestimate the gravity of the solo and help you focus.
But when you are in the business you just have to tell those voices to shut the f*$% up and get on with it.
-Do not be complacent.
-Be deliberate with EVERY move. Do not overbash a placement, but test every stick and fully trust it.
-Oh yeah, carry a cell phone too. It may not work, but it raises the odds in your favor.
-Best of luck! Have fun!
-It just comes with time.

ksolem wrote:

edl wrote: ...Park there and make sure you're car is visible, from both the ground and the air... ...Oh yeah, carry a cell phone too. It may not work, but it raises the odds in your favor.

You are cracking me up! That is one of trhe best laughs I've had in years.

Forget about the car parking part, if you really, seriously can't cut the umbilical cord then get or rent a sat phone. Don't kid yourself with a cell. If you need it to work get the right tool.

Dude, I think you missed the point of this message. It's not about protecting you. It's about protecting the SAR people who will risk their lives trying to find you. Sure, a cell phone won't work in all cases. But it might.

My father-in-law did a lot of SAR work in his younger days. He recovered several bodies of people who were hiking, got lost and died very nasty deaths. Many, many hours and money were spent searching for them by a lot of people who took time out of their ordinary lives to help out perfect strangers. One of his best friends died in a plane crash searching for some one who had a sprained ankle and walked on his own, three day later. A single call from a four ounce cell phone and his friend would be alive today.

For better or worse, we don't live in a society where you can "cut the cord". If you choose to go solo, without any means of external contact, that's your choice. But if you turn up missing, people aren't just going to say "well, that's the way he wanted it". Nope, they are going to mount a massive SAR effort to try and find you. That's how we are as a people. So just keep that in mind when deciding how you want to live your life.

Your point is vaild, a cell phone isn't a magic wand that will work in all cases. A sat phone or PLB is a much better choice. But how many of us have those? All I'm asking is that if you have a cell phone, throw it in your pack. If something happens, pull it out, turn it on, check for a signal, and make the call that can save your life and the lives of those looking for you.

dug wrote:Thanks for all the great tips. I really need all solo help I can get. (I wish we had a smooch icon)

(Those that know dug will know why I laugh about him needing advice on soloing.)

mconnell wrote:

dug wrote:Thanks for all the great tips. I really need all solo help I can get. (I wish we had a smooch icon)

(Those that know dug will know why I laugh about him needing advice on soloing.)

Doug's version of 'Climbing Solo' -

Anyone who brags about soloing or wants to discuss it at length......is missing the ultimate reward of the experience.

Soloing is a great way to attract llamas



(or so I am told )

rhyang wrote:

mconnell wrote:

dug wrote:Thanks for all the great tips. I really need all solo help I can get. (I wish we had a smooch icon)

(Those that know dug will know why I laugh about him needing advice on soloing.)

Doug's version of 'Climbing Solo' -

Good thing he's got that harness and the rope. It's always safer to climb with a rope!

Dow Williams wrote:Anyone who brags about soloing or wants to discuss it at length......is missing the ultimate reward of the experience.

Well, some guy's might consider bragging rights to be the ultimate reward, who are you to say?

Dow Williams wrote:Anyone who brags about soloing or wants to discuss it at length......is missing the ultimate reward of the experience.

Reinhold Messner has a book about solo climbing...