Climbing Solo

Post general questions and discuss issues related to climbing.
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Diggler

 
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by Diggler » Tue Jul 29, 2008 5:29 pm

http://www.climbing.com/exclusive/above/decking/ Here is a good article Michael Reardon (RIP) wrote about soloing awhile back.

Alain Robert frequently soloes buildings for publicity & to raise awareness about causes he supports (http://www.alainrobert.com/).

Then again, what do these guys know about soloing?

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ksolem

 
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by ksolem » Tue Jul 29, 2008 7:58 pm

edl - I didn't miss your point. I also apologize for being dismissive.

My point is that since a cell phone is not reliable, if you feel that having a comm link is inportant you should buy or rent a satt phone. Either take the right tool or none, but don't kidd yourself that maybe you can make a phone call...

One thing about soloing, at least in my experience, is that you get in trouble when you least expect it.

2 short tales.

I was soloing Igor Unchained, a classic 5.9 rock climb in The CA Needles (I only soloed the upper pitches from the traverse ledge – the 1st pitch has that shallow crack which I never wanted to solo.) At the top of what is normally the 3rd pitch I took a break and relaxed, taking in the view (this is just above where Airy Interlude joins the route.) This is not a real ledge but rather a sloping stance of sorts. When I felt like going on up I did not really think about it but just turned into the rock and stepped up. I moved awkwardly and slipped. I saved it, obviously, or I would not be boring you with this now. But I was very scared and had to completely regroup. That upper section, far from the hardest part of the climb, was entirely gripping for me. That was the third time I soloed those pitches, and the last.

After an ascent of the NE Chute of Langley from Tuttle Creek, I descended it’s adjacent rib (due to unstable afternoon snow in the chute – btw this was much more serious than the climb.) Carelessly, I walked out onto some flat snow in the canyon and broke through into a deep pool of slushy ice water. Up to my neck, I quickly went hypothermic and barely got out alive. I was at the moment of resignation when I got lucky and fought my way out. I was near death when I finally got back to my bivy but I still had enough juice to strip off my wet clothes and get in my bag and collapse. I passed out, slept 12 hours and woke up alive.

Am I, as Dow would imply, posting this stuff out of a need for attention? No.

Climbing in general is serious business if you play hard, and soloing ups the ante. Why not talk about it? I am always interested to hear other folks tales of wild times in high places.

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Clydascope

 
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by Clydascope » Tue Jul 29, 2008 8:59 pm

ksolem wrote:I am always interested to hear other folks tales of wild times in high places.


Okay here's one...

My first summer on the Eastside I climbed Mt Humphreys from the west, solo. On the way down I made a bad choice and ended on a ledge overhanging the north face. After quite an internal debate I decided to traverse back to the correct line rather than going back up, several minutes of sheer terror followed.

Once reaching the notch where the difficulties ease up I felt a wave of relief come over me so I started bombing down the class 2-3 gully back down to Humphreys Basin. About halfway down a large chunk of talus rolled with me on it and the next thing I knew I was doing a swan dive into the rocks below. Landing on my hands first I tried to absorb as much impact as possible but banged hard on my head before rolling over the top.

On the next revolution my legs got jammed in the talus boulders and stopped me from doing another hand spring down the hill. I landed hard on my back (glad to be wearing a pack!) and took several minutes checking for injuries before trying to right myself. Blood gushed from my hands and shins, and a nice goose egg popped from my forehead but other than that I was fine.

I tip-toed my way down from there. When I got back to camp I decided to spend another night instead of hiking out. Didn't want to wimp out and run for home. It was a great night in the backcountry for me.

That was the last time I let guard down when going solo.
Last edited by Clydascope on Tue Jul 29, 2008 11:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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ksolem

 
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by ksolem » Tue Jul 29, 2008 10:00 pm

Holy handsprings, Batman! You're lucky to be alive - as am I.

Solo but not alone on Mt Humphreys:
Image
That's Larry Cote and Craig Morris racing the sun. I took the photo.

Soloing stories? Bring 'em on...

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Andinistaloco

 
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by Andinistaloco » Wed Jul 30, 2008 3:55 am

Nice shot, ksolem.

I think I'll cut my little soloing story short, but it was a wild one. I was climbing Uto Peak in the Canadian Rockies and it was drizzling on and off in the morning. I went for it anyway and had a blast soloing some beautifully solid 5.0-5.5 rock to the summit. Unfortunately the skies opened up just after I left the summit, and doused the peak... and the drizzling continued, too. So I had to descend several hundred feet of wet rock up to fifth class, sometimes wrapping a shirt around one of my feet in order to try to dry the rock below me off. I could barely use my hands after I got down - it was that kind of a white-knuckle adventure.

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ksolem

 
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by ksolem » Wed Jul 30, 2008 5:48 am

Holy white knuckles, bleeding fingers!

I hate downclimbing sketchy terrain when it is wet.

Good job getting back in one piece.

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Clydascope

 
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by Clydascope » Wed Jul 30, 2008 2:35 pm

Borut Kantuser wrote:All this is amateur stuff!

You shouldn't hike alone.
Bad examples.
Grow up!


My story took place 24 years ago, I have grown up. Here's a better example for you:

I'd rather hike alone than with someone who tells me what to do!

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ksolem

 
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by ksolem » Wed Jul 30, 2008 3:41 pm

I am hoping that Mr. Kantuser is pulling our leg... especially since my tales are both in the last 5 years, so obviously I have not grown up. Why should I after all, I am only 54...

8)

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rhyang

 
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by rhyang » Wed Jul 30, 2008 4:03 pm

The nice thing about hiking alone is that you can set your own pace, make your own choices, camp where you want, get a little lost if you like, take a slightly different route if you desire .. freedom of the hills, as it were :)

If I gave someone a detailed plan & itinerary of every thing I did by myself I would drive my friends nuts :lol: This seems like a great idea in theory if you usually don't go anywhere by yourself though.

I'll put up my plans & partners listing after my neurosurgeon (hopefully) clears me for climbing in four weeks :)

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Clydascope

 
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by Clydascope » Wed Jul 30, 2008 4:16 pm

I suppose it could be debated if I've grow up or just grown older.

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asmrz

 
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by asmrz » Wed Jul 30, 2008 5:10 pm

I would think that the process of "growing up" in the backcountry involves learning the skills needed to be proficient there and soloing would be the ultimate expression of that skill. If we tell those just starting out, that they can only go as a part of a group, that safety is in numbers, that technology and reliance on others for one's safety is important, we are doing them a great disservice. Mountains and rocks are all about judgment and that can only be learned by doing. Of course not everyone is suited to participate. Use your judgment!

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Clydascope

 
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by Clydascope » Wed Jul 30, 2008 7:02 pm

Borut Kantuser wrote:The REASON of soloing is speed.
Like that of alpine style might be.


That may be YOUR REASON, but it's not mine.

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asmrz

 
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by asmrz » Wed Jul 30, 2008 7:09 pm

Borut
Soloing for speed is about 1% of the reason we do it. I hope others here on SP can address themselves to the remaining 99%.

And climbing Alpine Style has absolutely nothing to do with this forum. It is just a way to do something (in this case) a lightweight ascent mimicking local crag climbing, R.E. usually two people with some gear going up a mountain. That's Alpine Style as opposed to many other (usually requiring much more gear and human support) ways to climb.

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Andinistaloco

 
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by Andinistaloco » Wed Jul 30, 2008 9:17 pm

I always get a little suspicious when someone who hasn't even been able to find a profile picture (much less contribute mountains and routes) all of a sudden starts getting sanctimonious and telling folks how to climb.

It's not necessary to hike or climb alone to get in trouble - climbing is inherently dangerous enough even with others. Alex Lowe wasn't soloing when he died, and nor were many other great climbers. Some of them probably weren't "amateurs," either. :wink:

"Security is mostly a superstition. It does not exist in nature, nor do the children of men as a whole experience it. Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than outright exposure."
- Helen Keller

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mconnell

 
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by mconnell » Wed Jul 30, 2008 9:34 pm

Andinistaloco wrote:I always get a little suspicious when someone who hasn't even been able to find a profile picture (much less contribute mountains and routes) all of a sudden starts getting sanctimonious and telling folks how to climb.


What does posting a profile pic have to do with climbing? Anybody that feels that their way is the only way should just be ignored, whether they care to upload a photo or not.

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